The Charlottesville 29

Where to eat in Charlottesville

Tag: Zocalo

Thank You, Andrew Silver, for Zocalo

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Andrew Silver (right) with Ivan Rekosh. (Photo by Jen Fariello.)

Andrew Silver, the first ever participant in Five Finds on Friday, and co-founder of Zocalo, is moving on. Since opening Zocalo together fourteen years ago, Silver and Ivan Rekosh have been virtually attached at the hip. After meeting on the first day of culinary school in 1998, the two became fast friends, sharing both passion and talent for food. But when they moved to Charlottesville in 2002 to open a restaurant with Peter Castiglione, they could not have imagined the fixture it would become.

With the founding philosophy “Happy People Unite,” Zocalo is one of the great successes of the current era of Charlottesville dining. In 2012, Zocalo was the first entrant into The Charlottesville 29, and has remained there ever since. Beloved by chefsfootball legends, writers, and others, the restaurant at the heart of our downtown mall has a been a model of consistency in an industry where change is constant. Is any Charlottesville restaurant more reliable? When you go to Zocalo, you know that the Chili Broth Steamed Mussels are going to be great. As is the Spicy Tuna Tartare. And the Vella Jack Cheese Fritters. And the Key Lime Free Range Chicken. And the Black Bean and Corn Relleno. And the service. And the experience. Silver’s relentless commitment to his work has been a huge part of that.

But, time waits for no one. Now a father of two, Silver is ready for the next phase of his life – a job with Roots Natural Kitchen, the growing franchise that Silver and Rekosh helped launch in 2015. As Roots’ new Corporate Chef, Silver will help the company continue its rapid growth, while maintaining the high food standards that has made it so popular in Charlottesville, where lines out the door form daily. Silver’s initial focus will be Roots’ new catering space in the former home to St. Maarten Cafe, which will be a template for future Roots’ locations.

There is good news, though, for Charlottesville diners – a silver lining in Silver’s leaving. Thanks to Rekosh, Zocalo is not going anywhere. While regulars can expect more of the same, Rekosh does have some interesting tweaks planned, too. Stay tuned for details of those.

Meanwhile, Silver will be missed. Thank you, Andrew, for fourteen great years and for creating something special for Charlottesville.

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Rekosh, Castiglione, and Silver, in 2003.

In the kitchen, duos are rare. Egos leave little room for both Abbott & Costello. Rather, it’s just Batali, or Jeon Georges, or Wolfgang Puck. Anyone who wonders how Rekosh and Silver pulled it off need only read their own words as they turn the page:

Silver:

It has been an inside joke at Zocalo for some time now that Ivan is “Dad” and I am “Mom.” While at first the moniker did not sit well with me, I soon realized its true meaning. Ivan has always been the “fix it” guy, and I have been more more of the nurturer to the staff.  While I am proud of the business accomplishments that Ivan and I have achieved over the past fourteen years, our greatest accomplishment has been creating an atmosphere for our staff that feels like home, like a family. It is to this family that I am forever grateful for being such pros that I have been able to be a good father and husband to my family in a business that is supposed to make that impossible. Zocalo will always be my home and I will always be its “Mom.” As my fingers press these keys, it dawns upon me how lucky I have been to have something that is so hard to say goodbye to.

Rekosh:

I need to speak of Andrew with two different hats on. First as a business partner and second as a friend. Andrew’s commitment to Zocalo and our community are inspiring. His loyalty to his staff and customers was visible in every decision he made. I will continue to carry on in the tradition of “customer and staff above self.”  I know he will take these traits with him on his next venture as well. I am very excited to see what Andrew creates.

And now, with a tear in my eye . . . Andrew as a human. One of the kindest, most giving, sincerest men I know. I am grateful to have the honor to call a him friend, a brother, and a partner. His commitment to his family, my family, our Zocalo family and really all families everywhere is at the root of the kind of man he is. While Zocalo will miss Andrew’s sense of humor and bad jokes and general zest for life, we all feel very lucky to have had him in our lives for as long as we have.

Man I feel like I’m writing an obituary . . . bottom line here: Andrew is awesome. I love him and am grateful for what we’ve created and continue to create. While our partnership may be over on paper it will continue for the rest of our lives.

Wow. Good thing that Atlanta pizza shop never panned out.

Five Finds on Friday: Mike Hollar

 

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Today’s Five Finds on Friday come from Mike Hollar, sous chef of ZoCaLo. Next Saturday, March 4, ZoCaLo is hosting an exclusive five-course tequila dinner, paired with special tequilas and mezcals. ZoCaLo says it will “teach you about tequila’s origins, confirm why sipping it is the way to go, and proclaim it is completely sane to pair with lobster.” Seating is very limited, so call to reserve yours at (434) 977-4944. Hollar’s picks:

1) Foot-long Hot Dog, Old Bay Fries, and a tall Dr. Pepper at Jak’n Jil. “My father used to work there back in the 60’s and one of my earliest food memories is going to Jak’n Jil and eating two or three hot dogs with my father and grandfather.”

2) Boquerones con Ajo at MAS Tapas. “Little fishes drizzled with olive oil, little lemon, and some salt. Really simple but awesome.”

3) Polpette at Vivace. “Just the meatballs (one may want to add pasta but it’s not needed) made with pork and beef, seared perfectly and served with probably the best marinara in Charlottesville.”

4) Novum 2013 from Early Mountain Vineyards. “Great bottle of wine. Zocalo management and I toured the facility back in November and then had a tasting. All the wines were great but the Novum is, in my opinion, the best.”

5) Chicken Wings from Red Lantern. “This is a great Netflix and chill food. Just want do some couch sitting on a Friday? Curl up with your loved one and chow down on these gems.”

“Best Thing I Ate All Year” 2016

Looking back at 2016, what stands out as the best thing you ate all year?  Top area chefs provide their answer. (Here are last year’s picks.) A tribute to Charlottesville’s bounty:

Mitchell Beerens (Lampo)

Agedashi Tofu at Now & Zen. “The silken tofu is made crispy by dusting it in potato starch and frying it. Then, it’s set in a spa of tentsuyu broth made smoky from the katsuobushi and a little sweet from mirin. Perfect balance of big flavors.”

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Craig Hartman (BBQ Exchange)

Spaghetti all’ Amatriciana at Parallel 38. “When restaurants around the world jumped to support the town of Amatrice in Italy after it was devastated by an earthquake, we were fortunate enough to experience a version of Spaghetti all’ Amatriciana at Parallel 38. Their version was almost exactly the same as what we experienced in Italy. It was also so delicious that we went back the next night to have it again.”

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Brian Jones (The Alley Light)

Brebirousse from Flora Artisanal Cheese in Timbercreek Market with Seeded Roll from Albemarle Baking Company.  “The seeded roll is a beautiful roll, made from baguette dough,  crusted in fennel seeds, poppy seeds and white sesame seeds. What a yummy combination of flavors. Brebirousse is a soft, smooth, creamy, buttery sheep’s milk cheese from the Rhone-Alpes region of France. Not to take anything away from these two ingredients, but food memories often have more to do with the eater’s condition at the time of the meal than the actual meal itself.  Food always tastes better when you are hungry!  I have eaten at some amazing restaurants in my life but I the best meal I ever had in my life was on a backpacking trip when our rations were low and our calorie output far exceeded our calorie intake. We savored every last morsel, scraped our cooking vessel clean, so clean that there was nothing left to wash. Possibly food is at its best  when the aromas or tastes remind you of a forgotten memory lost somewhere in the back of your mind. Think Ratatouille the movie when the food critic Anton Ego bites into Chef Remy’s ratatouille.”

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Christian Kelly (Maya)

Duck Liver Terrine at The Ivy Inn.  “This pâté en terrine is a slice of art. The perfect suspension of fat in meat wrapped in what appeared to be paper-thin cured duck breast slices and served with traditional pommery mustard and pickled vegetables. Angelo’s food is truly inspiring. The work of his kitchen is a delight to the taste buds. Well done.”

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Tommy Lasley (Fry’s Spring Station, Ivy Provisions)

Live Scallop with Uni Broth at Mican (now closed). “The best thing I ate this past year was way too much amazing sashimi at Mican Japanese Restaurant, which unfortunately is no longer open! Everything I had was the best example I have tried in years, Charlottesville or otherwise. If I had to pick one bite it was the live scallop with uni broth.” [Note: Mican’s owners are now serving sushi at Lemongrass.]

Thomas Leroy (Kardinal Hall)

Pork Belly at BBQ Exchange. “I went there and ordered  the meat combo plate of course. The ribs were outstanding, but that pork belly with a fried crispy finish to balance the smoking flavor was amazing. I topped it with their bacon bbq sauce of course. Next time I go, that’s all I’m ordering.”

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Michael McCarthy (Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie)

Salt Honey Pie from Greenwood Gourmet by Polina Chesnakova. “Nuff said.”

Loren Mendosa (Lampo)

Olive Oil Gelato from Splendora’s. “I don’t know if PK’s running it regularly, but it was truly fantastic. She used our Mosto olive oil from Liguria and we topped it with sea salt and a drizzle of the Galardo olive oil that Hodges and Jill Myers are importing. It was the perfect combination!”

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Jenny Peterson (Paradox Pastry)

Roasted Chicken and Street Corn Off the Cob at The Fitzroy. “Holy moly! Food tends to be an ‘in the moment’ experience for me, and that chicken and corn just hit the spot at the right time, and it was so comfy and cozy in there.”

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Ian Redshaw (Lampo)

Sunchokes from Wayside Produce. “Any vegetable from Wayside Produce, especially the sunchokes. These are the best vegetables I have been able to find thus far in my career.”

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Ivan Rekosh (ZoCaLo)

Flank and Brisket Pho at Thai Cuisine & Noodle House. “This time of year I’m loving the pho from Thai Cuisine. I usually opt for the flank and brisket but sometimes add the tendon. The broth is amazing. I love to stick my whole face in the bowl and breathe in the steam while I’m slurping the noodles. Really warms you up from the inside out on these cold days. Also a great family runs it.” 

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Wilson Richey (co-owner, The Alley Light, The Bebedero, The Pie Chest, Revolutionary Soup, The Whiskey Jar)

Chicken Liver Mousse Tart at Timbercreek Market. “Just redefined what can be done with chicken liver, so smooth and elegant. I would eat the whole tart if it were not frowned upon to do things like that.”

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John Shanesy (Petit Pois)

Black Bean and Corn Relleno at ZoCaLo. “It hits on every texture, and all the flavors are very well pronounced but at the same time all working in unison to be a joy to eat. They’ve been great new neighbors to get to meet and have greeted me so warmly as well.”

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Andrew Silver (ZoCaLo)

Polpettine Panuozzo at Lampo. “Meatball parm sub was my go-to late night, altered state, munchie meal.  Lampo’s is the refined, grown up version.  Plus the fact that the bread is baked ‘a la minute’ seals the deal.”

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Angelo Vangelopoulos (The Ivy Inn)

Petit Kouign-amann from MarieBette. “I found this gem at the city market. Will Darsie filled my request for a mixed bag of goodies while I picked up my veggies from Susan and Wally Parks at Broadhead Mountain Farm. It’s an over the top decadent croissant dough masterpiece with apples and a metric ton of butter and sugar. My market visit is no longer complete without one of them.”

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Tristan Wraight (Oakhart Social)

170 Dry Aged NY Strip at Lampo. “Ridiculously delicious. Cast iron crispy and served with a head of roasted garlic. Not even fair.”

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Tucker Yoder (Timbercreek Market)

I Don’t Even Own a Gun by Twenty Paces.  “I Don’t Even Own a Gun and Noah’s Arcade are some of the best cheeses I have ever tasted. Could easily rival European cheeses. Great funky cheeses. All their cheeses have been a revelation this year but the soft gooey ones are a Yoder family favorite.”

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