The Charlottesville 29

Where to eat in Charlottesville

Tag: Kardinal Hall

Introducing Collaboration 29

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Though rarely made explicit, an underlying theme of this site’s content is community collaboration. The Charlottesville 29 exists, after all, to celebrate the Charlottesville food community. And, perhaps the defining characteristic of our food community is that it is in fact a community. While cutthroat competition can plague food cultures of other cities, Charlottesville, warts and all, is different. “The community really does function in an interconnected way,” Splendora’s PK Ross once explained. “And that has so much to do with the love that everyone has for what they are doing.”

I see this each week in Five Finds on Friday, when one member of the food community rejoices at the chance to showcase others. I see it in the way that the success of one stands on the shoulders of so many others. I see it in help the less fortunate among us receives to lift themselves up. I see it in the determination with which our food community feeds the hungry. And, most of all, I see it when someone has a need. Others rush to fill it.

Introducing Collaboration 29

And so, yes, when Reason Beer invited me to collaborate on a beer, much of my excitement stemmed from my fondness of beer and Reason. When I started this little website six years ago, I never imagined it might one day lead to making a beer with the former head brewer of Maine Beer Company, one of the country’s most acclaimed breweries. Just a year old, Reason has already earned its own national praise.

But, what made the invitation so special is the beer’s stated aim. The purpose, Reason said, would be to celebrate Charlottesville’s food and drink community — the very thing this site has done since its founding.

Later this month, Reason will release Collaboration 29 – “a juicy, tropical love letter to our home town, brewed in partnership with Beer Run, Murphy & Rude, Kardinal Hall and The Charlottesville 29.” At 5.5% ABV, Reason brewer Fulton describes Collaboration 29 as a “very sessionable IPA featuring a delicate blend of tropical, citrus, and pine notes.” Having sampled a test batch, I would describe it as delicious. Fulton says that he strives towards perfection, knowing he can never reach it, but hoping to get closer each time. Wow, this one may be as close as it gets.

What may sound like an odd group of collaborators, to Fulton made perfect sense. Fulton chose The Charlottesville 29, Beer Run, and Kardinal Hall because he wanted “to work collaboratively with some of our earliest supporters in Charlottesville.” Their support, he says, “has been incredibly helpful in establishing Reason Beer in the local beer scene.” Meanwhile, in true community spirit, the inclusion of new local malting company Murphy & Rude was to pay it forward. “We thought it would be a great opportunity to share the spotlight with another fantastic Charlottesville startup who also helps put our region on the craft beer map,” Fulton says.

Release events are planned later this month at Kardinal Hall (June 28), Beer Run (June 29), and Reason (June 30). Check back for details. Meanwhile, read on to learn how we made Collaboration 29. Thank you, Tm McGovern, for capturing the images.

The Collaboration

If you are not familiar with how beer collaborations work, they can run the gamut. In some cases, they are true collaborations, with brewers sharing and tweaking ideas, crafting a product together. In other cases, one brewer runs the the show, and they are little more than an excuse for folks to get together and talk about (and drink) beer. Ours was closer to the latter.

Yes, we all provided input. But, Fulton drove the process. This made sense. Fulton, after all, has brewed legendary brews like Mo, Lunch, and Dinner. I brew . . . coffee?

Still, Fulton did include us. The group’s initial idea, Fulton says, was “to create a drinkable summer IPA that will satisfy hop heads while not alienating the hop-adverse.” Next, Fulton asked me about my favorite hop varietals. I told him I am not sure I have a single favorite — I like so many — but I did name a few that appear in many of my favorite beers. The final hop profile includes Mosaic, Amarillo, and Simcoe.

To begin making Collaboration 29, we ran Murphy & Rude malt through a mill. Murphy & Rude is the area’s first malting company, creating malt from local grains. We used their Crystal 40, made of violetta barley from Brann & King Farms, and Wheat, made of soft red winter wheat from Bay’s Best farm.

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The milled malt was then transferred to a vessel called a “mash tun” where hot water was added, creating mash, something many brewers say is one of their favorite smells. I can see why. The heady aroma took me back to childhood memories of my father making warm malted milk from Horlicks.

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The milled malt sits in the hot water and creates wort. To the wort, we added salts and minerals to enhance sugar conversion and also aid the finished product by creating a more rounded mouthfeel and flavor profile, as well as better head construction and glass lacing.

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Next, we removed a wort sample to test that the pH was the magic number we were looking for.

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Meanwhile, a process called vorlauf circulated the liquid in the mash tun, running it off the bottom through pipes and circulating it back to the top, which helped to clarify the wort, removing malt sediment. A window in the piping allowed for monitoring the improving clarity.

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After the wort was sufficiently clear came runoff, diverting the wort from the mash tun to the kettle, where more hot water was added. This required turning on the heat in the kettle. It was a great thing I was there for this vital step. Here I am turning the switch from the “Off” position to the “On” position.

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Meanwhile, Fulton removed the leftover malt (“spent grain”) from the mash tun, which local farmers use as feed.

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In the kettle, the wort boiled for a hour.

There’s lots of down time during brewing. Fortunately, Devon kept our glasses full.

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And, there was plenty of time to talk over beer.

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Soon, it was back to work. We weighed out hops . . .

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. . . and added them to the kettle.

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Lots of hops.

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Finally, the wort was pumped from the kettle to a vessel called a fermenter. There, Fulton climbed high and added yeast to begin fermentation, transforming wort to beer.

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Next week, Fulton will add more hops to the beer – “dry-hopping.” And the following week, our beer will be ready. The dream team:

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Thank you to Mark Fulton and the Reason team for creating this project, the first and only beer named after The Charlottesville 29. It is a great tribute to the Charlottesville food and drink community. And, the beer is just outstanding. Stay tuned.

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Five Finds on Friday: Jason Boorman

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Today’s Five Finds on Friday come from Jason Boorman, General Manager of Kardinal Hall, and winner of this week’s reader drawing to participate in Five Finds.* “Picking just five things in this town is extremely difficult,” says Boorman. “The amount of talent and offerings in Charlottesville are deserving of their own novel, each chapter dedicated to one restaurant or menu. I was tempted to do my five finds on just fried chicken alone! If it was my last day in this town though and I had to choose, these would be the first five things I would have to check off my list.”

1) Pastrami, Swiss and Mustard on Everything Bagel at Bodo’s. “You can put just about anything on a Bodo’s everything bagel and I will eat it, but I will wait in line on a Saturday morning for this sandwich!”

2) Tuna Tartare at Zocalo. “One of my favorite things to do is app hop on the downtown mall and it always starts with the tuna tartare. I’ve tried to duplicate this at home and gave up.”

3) Capellini Frutti Di Mare “Fra Diavolo” at Tavola. “Seafood is fresh, pasta is cooked perfectly, and that sauce . .. . my favorite pasta dish hands down. Order a side of bread with it, because leaving any sauce in the bowl is an absolute sin!”

4) Porchetta Panuozzi at Lampo. “I could do a five finds on just Lampo, but I’ve had dreams about this sandwich before. The house made porchetta is phenomenal, house bread is the perfect vessel and the crunch from the broccoli rabe ties it all together. If you haven’t had it yet, go there now, it will change your life.”

5) Nachos with Beef and Extra Tomatillo Salsa at Beer Run. “I started dating my girlfriend right around the time Beer Run opened. This was the first dish we had there and now we can’t go there without ordering it. It’s pretty bad when the bartender doesn’t even have to ask how you want them.”

*(The random drawing was open to all readers, whether in the restaurant industry or not. But, non-industry readers deserve appreciation, too, and so next week’s Five Finds on Friday will come from a non-industry winner of the drawing.)

Chefs on the Move

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Devin Murray, now of Brasserie Saison

Catching up on chef news around town:

Brasserie Saison has just added even more talent to its kitchen, which already included head chef Tyler Teass, formerly or Rose’s Luxury, and Morad Sbaitri. Now they’ve added longtime Whiskey Jar head chef Devin Murray, who joins the kitchen as sous chef, replacing Nick Moon. John Meiklejohn takes over at The Whiskey Jar.

Kardinal Hall recently welcomed new head chef Jeff Burgess, former chef and co-owner of Provincetown’s Ristorante Marissa, who has also cooked at top spots like Jasper White’s Summer Shack and Mario Batali’s Babbo. Original Kardinal Hall chef Thomas Leroy left to run the kitchen of the Market at Grelen.

Kelsey Naylor, former sous chef of Timbercreek Market, just took the same role at Public Fish & Oyster “Watch this girl,” said owner Daniel Kaufman. “You heard it hear first.”

Aris Cuadra, formerly of Tavola, is new Executive Chef of Clifton Inn, which re-opened yesterday with a fresh new look and menu, after a brief closure for refurbishments. Look for a more accessible menu, suitable for regular visits.

At Duner’s, longtime chef Doug McLeod moved home to Asheville, and has been replaced by former head chef Laura Fonner who returns after a few years of baby time. “She’s an amazing chef,” says owner Bob Caldwell.

And, last but not least, John Shanesy is leaving Petit Pois to try his luck in New York City. Owner Brian Helleberg will continue as Executive Chef, and though he would not rule out hiring a sous or chef de cuisine down the road, says that for now he really enjoys being involved in the nuts and bolts of Petit Pois’s kitchen. We will enjoy him there as well.