The Charlottesville 29

Where to eat in Charlottesville

Tag: Ivan Rekosh

“Best Thing I Ate All Year” 2016

Looking back at 2016, what stands out as the best thing you ate all year?  Top area chefs provide their answer. (Here are last year’s picks.) A tribute to Charlottesville’s bounty:

Mitchell Beerens (Lampo)

Agedashi Tofu at Now & Zen. “The silken tofu is made crispy by dusting it in potato starch and frying it. Then, it’s set in a spa of tentsuyu broth made smoky from the katsuobushi and a little sweet from mirin. Perfect balance of big flavors.”

tofu

Craig Hartman (BBQ Exchange)

Spaghetti all’ Amatriciana at Parallel 38. “When restaurants around the world jumped to support the town of Amatrice in Italy after it was devastated by an earthquake, we were fortunate enough to experience a version of Spaghetti all’ Amatriciana at Parallel 38. Their version was almost exactly the same as what we experienced in Italy. It was also so delicious that we went back the next night to have it again.”

p38spag

Brian Jones (The Alley Light)

Brebirousse from Flora Artisanal Cheese in Timbercreek Market with Seeded Roll from Albemarle Baking Company.  “The seeded roll is a beautiful roll, made from baguette dough,  crusted in fennel seeds, poppy seeds and white sesame seeds. What a yummy combination of flavors. Brebirousse is a soft, smooth, creamy, buttery sheep’s milk cheese from the Rhone-Alpes region of France. Not to take anything away from these two ingredients, but food memories often have more to do with the eater’s condition at the time of the meal than the actual meal itself.  Food always tastes better when you are hungry!  I have eaten at some amazing restaurants in my life but I the best meal I ever had in my life was on a backpacking trip when our rations were low and our calorie output far exceeded our calorie intake. We savored every last morsel, scraped our cooking vessel clean, so clean that there was nothing left to wash. Possibly food is at its best  when the aromas or tastes remind you of a forgotten memory lost somewhere in the back of your mind. Think Ratatouille the movie when the food critic Anton Ego bites into Chef Remy’s ratatouille.”

cheese seeded

Christian Kelly (Maya)

Duck Liver Terrine at The Ivy Inn.  “This pâté en terrine is a slice of art. The perfect suspension of fat in meat wrapped in what appeared to be paper-thin cured duck breast slices and served with traditional pommery mustard and pickled vegetables. Angelo’s food is truly inspiring. The work of his kitchen is a delight to the taste buds. Well done.”

ivyduck

Tommy Lasley (Fry’s Spring Station, Ivy Provisions)

Live Scallop with Uni Broth at Mican (now closed). “The best thing I ate this past year was way too much amazing sashimi at Mican Japanese Restaurant, which unfortunately is no longer open! Everything I had was the best example I have tried in years, Charlottesville or otherwise. If I had to pick one bite it was the live scallop with uni broth.” [Note: Mican’s owners are now serving sushi at Lemongrass.]

Thomas Leroy (Kardinal Hall)

Pork Belly at BBQ Exchange. “I went there and ordered  the meat combo plate of course. The ribs were outstanding, but that pork belly with a fried crispy finish to balance the smoking flavor was amazing. I topped it with their bacon bbq sauce of course. Next time I go, that’s all I’m ordering.”

pickles-belly-and-ribs

Michael McCarthy (Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie)

Salt Honey Pie from Greenwood Gourmet by Polina Chesnakova. “Nuff said.”

Loren Mendosa (Lampo)

Olive Oil Gelato from Splendora’s. “I don’t know if PK’s running it regularly, but it was truly fantastic. She used our Mosto olive oil from Liguria and we topped it with sea salt and a drizzle of the Galardo olive oil that Hodges and Jill Myers are importing. It was the perfect combination!”

gelato

Jenny Peterson (Paradox Pastry)

Roasted Chicken and Street Corn Off the Cob at The Fitzroy. “Holy moly! Food tends to be an ‘in the moment’ experience for me, and that chicken and corn just hit the spot at the right time, and it was so comfy and cozy in there.”

chicken corn

Ian Redshaw (Lampo)

Sunchokes from Wayside Produce. “Any vegetable from Wayside Produce, especially the sunchokes. These are the best vegetables I have been able to find thus far in my career.”

chokes

Ivan Rekosh (ZoCaLo)

Flank and Brisket Pho at Thai Cuisine & Noodle House. “This time of year I’m loving the pho from Thai Cuisine. I usually opt for the flank and brisket but sometimes add the tendon. The broth is amazing. I love to stick my whole face in the bowl and breathe in the steam while I’m slurping the noodles. Really warms you up from the inside out on these cold days. Also a great family runs it.” 

pho

Wilson Richey (co-owner, The Alley Light, The Bebedero, The Pie Chest, Revolutionary Soup, The Whiskey Jar)

Chicken Liver Mousse Tart at Timbercreek Market. “Just redefined what can be done with chicken liver, so smooth and elegant. I would eat the whole tart if it were not frowned upon to do things like that.”

mousse

John Shanesy (Petit Pois)

Black Bean and Corn Relleno at ZoCaLo. “It hits on every texture, and all the flavors are very well pronounced but at the same time all working in unison to be a joy to eat. They’ve been great new neighbors to get to meet and have greeted me so warmly as well.”

stuffed

Andrew Silver (ZoCaLo)

Polpettine Panuozzo at Lampo. “Meatball parm sub was my go-to late night, altered state, munchie meal.  Lampo’s is the refined, grown up version.  Plus the fact that the bread is baked ‘a la minute’ seals the deal.”

meatball

Angelo Vangelopoulos (The Ivy Inn)

Petit Kouign-amann from MarieBette. “I found this gem at the city market. Will Darsie filled my request for a mixed bag of goodies while I picked up my veggies from Susan and Wally Parks at Broadhead Mountain Farm. It’s an over the top decadent croissant dough masterpiece with apples and a metric ton of butter and sugar. My market visit is no longer complete without one of them.”

petit

Tristan Wraight (Oakhart Social)

170 Dry Aged NY Strip at Lampo. “Ridiculously delicious. Cast iron crispy and served with a head of roasted garlic. Not even fair.”

strip

Tucker Yoder (Timbercreek Market)

I Don’t Even Own a Gun by Twenty Paces.  “I Don’t Even Own a Gun and Noah’s Arcade are some of the best cheeses I have ever tasted. Could easily rival European cheeses. Great funky cheeses. All their cheeses have been a revelation this year but the soft gooey ones are a Yoder family favorite.”

paces

 

For Love of Women: ZoCaLo Auction Dinner

 

oystersz

Here is a story of love and respect for women.

Earlier this year, in The Charlottesville 29 Restaurant Auctions, each restaurant of The Charlottesville 29 offered up a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience to whoever pledged the largest donation to the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank. During the auctions, six friends and I joined forces to place a group bid on one of the experiences – ZoCaLo’s. Billing it as an “exclusive tasting menu,” ZoCaLo chef-owners Andrew Silver and Ivan Rekosh promised an array of special dishes, paired with wines and cocktails. “We have one goal,” they said. “To create the most memorable dining experience ever for the winner of this auction. No punches will be pulled, no expenses spared, no ingredient too luxurious.”

After some back-and-forth bidding, my friends and I were thrilled to win the dinner. Our plan, though, was not to enjoy the meal ourselves, but rather to give it to our wives as a ladies’ night out.

Last night, the ladies enjoyed their meal. And, boy did it live up to the hype. Eight courses, each expertly paired by Rekosh and Silver, who throughout the evening emerged from the kitchen to visit with the ladies and describe the dishes.

First came Wanno Oysters Three Ways, each with a different granita: jalepeno lime, cholula, and pickled onion. Pairing: Signet Rose Cava 2015.

oystersz

Next was Georges Bank Scallop Ceviche, with red onion, jalapeno, tomato, cilantro, and avocado, served on plantain chips. Pairing: An Ancho Ocho Margarita my wife said was so delicious that it needs to go on the menu, pronto.

ceviche

Third was Parsnip Soup with butter poached lobster and chives. Pairing: Nora Albarino 2014.

parsnip

Then, Russett Potato Gnocchi in beurre fondue with maitake mushroom, topped with crispy serrano ham. Pairing: Catena Alta Chardonnay 2013.

gnocchi

Then, Pan Roasted Crispy Duck Breast, with butternut puree, cumin spaetzle, Brussels sprouts, and apricot chamoy. Pairing: Max Reserva Pinot Noir 2016.

duck

Next, Yucatan Lamb Rack with golden beets, romanesco, sunchokes,and mint chimichurri. Pairing: Early Mountain Vineyards Novum 2013.

lamb

Next, 72 Hour Short Rib with horseradish gremolata, mustard greens, vella grits, and demi. Paring: Alma Negra Bonarda/Malbec 2013.

rib

Finally, Coconut Tres Leche Bread Pudding, with pasilla-vanilla ice cream and salted caramel.

cake

Thanks to the extraordinary generosity of Rekosh, Silver, and ZoCalo, every penny of our $1,050 winning bid went directly to the food bank. That’s enough to provide more than 4,000 meals to the area’s hungry – all from one meal.

And, here’s thing: the ladies’ dinner was paid for by men, prepared by men, and served by men. And, it was cleaned up by men, too. All for women. This is not to say they could not have done it all themselves. These are seven smart, strong, independent, hard-working women. They don’t need men to do any of this for them.

But, we love them.