The Charlottesville 29

Beyond being a science wiz, PK Ross’ greatest virtue in making gelato and sorbet may be her sensitive palate. At discerning flavors, few people I know are as gifted as the owner of Splendora’s. One unfortunate consequence of this trait is that a large number of her delicious experiments never reach the display case. I’ve had the good fortune of being a guinea pig for her trials, and while they are almost invariably outstanding, few meet her satisfaction. “Too ____,” she will say, no matter how much I like it. Just fill in the blank.

Her latest rejection was magnificent, a sorbet blending chocolate and an extraordinary apertif/digestif called War & Rust, made locally by Ben Jordan. Years ago, I wrote that War & Rust was “destined for cult status,” a prediction I had all but given up on until I recently read that it indeed has a “cult following.” (Who knew!) Whether a following or not, it is excellent, and marries particularly well with chocolate, as Vincent Derquenne did for the Charlottesville Mt. Rushmore Chef dinner.

This time, it turns out, it was not Ross who rejected the concoction, but the Commonwealth of Virginia. Chemistry prevented Ross from getting the sorbet’s alcohol percentage low enough for her to sell it without breaking state law. Alas, at a heady 5%, it is a magnificent creation I’ll never have the pleasure to buy. Just dream about.

Even without War & Rust, though, PK’s case is currently stocked with many (legal) creations that are more than worth your time and money. Go. Sample. Enjoy.