Edwards Dry Cured Lamb is Stunning
This is one of those very rare occasions where I was almost tempted not to write about a food because I want it all for myself. Edwards Virginia Smokehouse has just released Dry Cured Lamb, and it is extraordinary. Heavy on the smoke, loaded with umami, and a finish for days.
But, it’s the texture that is so stunning. Close my eyes and I’d almost believe it’s smoked tuna, or even mojama. I bought a crusty roll to go with it from Albemarle Baking Co., but quickly decided that it was best to alternate between bites of bread and lamb. Eating them together prevented full appreciation of the lamb’s silky mouthfeel. Alternating bites, meanwhile, broke up the lamb’s richness and enhanced enjoyment of the next bite.
A delicacy of colonial America and reportedly a favorite of Thomas Jefferson, “lamb ham” is experiencing a revival thanks to the teamwork of two great Virginians: curemaster Sam Edwards and shepherd Craig Rogers of Border Springs Farm.
At more than $40 per pound, it may sound expensive, but a little goes a long way. The quarter pound I bought was just $10, and more than enough for lunch. No wonder the guy who sliced it for me at Feast! said: “this is my favorite thing in the world right now.” OK, but please save some for me.