The Charlottesville 29

If there were just 29 restaurants in Charlottesville, what would be the ideal 29?

Tag: Donnie Glass

Citizen Taco Pop-up

tacopop

For years there has been buzz about Citizen Taco Bar — a fledgling restaurant concept from The Virginian Restaurant Company, which owns Citizen Burger Bar among others. When C-VILLE first reported of plans for Citizen Taco in 2014, it said “details are sketchy.” Four years later, though the concept is yet to have its own brick-and-mortar, it will make a temporary appearance for one night only on the Downtown Mall.

From 6 – 9 pm tonight, October 3, Citizen Taco Pop-Up will be at Penny Heart, the restaurant company’s private event space at 223 West Main Street, also home to Citizen Bowl. Chef Donnie Glass, formerly of Public Fish & Oyster, will help dish out what they are calling a “cheffy, streety, gritty, fancy, taco showcase.” Carnitas with pork, apples, fennel, carrots, chili, and cilantro. Fried catfish with bitter greens, mojo de ajo, and squid ink crema. More.

Happy hour starts at 5 with margaritas and beers.

The Public Auction: A Vehicle of Blessing

fish

Whole Snapper Greek Style at Public auction dinner.

Last month, I received an email from someone named Frank, who said he wished to bid on the Public Fish & Oyster auction in The Charlottesville 29 Restaurant Auctions, but on one condition: the auction experience would need to be on July 19, his wife’s birthday. This particular auction, I knew, had a lot of moving parts – a reunion dinner with former Public chef Donnie Glass hosted by MarieBette Cafe & Bakery, and presided over by Public owner and sommelier Daniel Kaufman. So, meeting the condition would require the consent and availability of all three, which seemed a long shot, especially since auction descriptions specify that winners must schedule their dinner at a mutually convenient time with the restaurant. It would also require moving up Public’s July 17 bidding deadline a few days, to allow chef Glass enough time to plan the dinner in case Frank won. Nonetheless, I figured, it was worth asking, and I told Frank that I would.

To my surprise, Glass, Kaufman, and MarieBette’s owners all confirmed that they could make July 19 work. Weeks still remained before the auction’s end, with plenty of opportunity for others to outbid Frank, but Glass, Kaufman, and MarieBette agreed to hold the date on the off chance he won. I delivered the good news to Frank, who promptly placed a bid of $1,500 for the dinner for six.

Soon after confirming the date, though, Glass received an offer he could not refuse from a top restaurant in Martha’s Vineyard. They asked him to start immediately. The only thing keeping Glass from moving right away, he told me, was his commitment to the auction experience. Given his unexpected career opportunity, I suggested that we replace him with Public’s current chef Gregg Dionne, a Glass protege who is more than capable of delivering a special experience. We could just explain the circumstances to any prior bidders, and offer them the chance to rescind their bid if they wished.

“No way,” wrote Glass, when he learned a $1,500 bid had already been placed. “Let’s do the 19th. I’m in 100%.” While a generous offer, I replied, there was a good chance Frank might not even win, in which case the dinner would not be on July 19th, and Glass would have postponed his new career opportunity several weeks for nothing. No matter, Glass said. If so, he would just return to Charlottesville later this year to provide the auction experience at a mutually convenient time. While this seemed well beyond the call of duty, Glass insisted. “I do not want to back out my commitment,” he said.

As bidding for the Public auction drew to a close, however, a serious competitor emerged, who would surpass Frank’s bid each time he placed a new one, threatening to upset his plans for a surprise birthday dinner for his wife. Frank was relentless, though, and, after some furious back-and-forth bidding, his competitor eventually conceded to Frank’s winning bid of $2,200 – every penny going to the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank. “What a two-fer’ this is for me,” Frank rejoiced in an email to me. “I get to give my wife and her friends a great birthday, and I get to help out the food bank at the same time. I can’t even imagine money more well spent.”

Yesterday, on the day of the dinner, his excitement had not subsided. “I’m so thankful for everything,” he wrote before the dinner. “Judy’s four good friends, plus Judy and myself, at a fantastic dinner, that benefits a wonderful charity close to my heart. Sheer awesomeness.”

I loved the term “sheer awesomeness,” but it turns out it may have been an understatement. So focused on the logistics of bidding and the growing benefit for the area’s hungry, I had not stopped to consider another wonderful aspect of the auctions: auction winners’ enjoyment of their experiences. That changed last night just before midnight, when I received an email from Frank:

Our evening was memorable in so many ways: great friends, great food, attentive, gracious and knowledgeable servers, and a wonderful cause. Sheer awesomeness perhaps undersells it a bit. One of Judy’s friends, a nurse just back from a week of helping families stricken by flooding in WV, said it was a life event for her: she’d always remember it. The same was true for all of us. Our 90 year old friend Rodney said he hadn’t enjoyed oysters like that in over 50 years, not since his days of vacationing on the OBX in the ’60’s. And, the Australian Tokay enjoyed with the final course of (warm) MarieBette desserts sent everyone into this giddy, joyful spiral . . .

Daniel was amazing in his role as sommelier — the pairings of wines with food were spot-on (even a red with the fish: it totally worked). And, Donnie — prior to getting in a car and driving to Cape Cod, where he starts his new job in less than 40 hours — knocked it out of the park. The courses were perfect: colorful, delicious, ample and with plenty of pop. We called him over so we could give him a standing O. Our loss is the Vineyard’s gain . . .

If the other 28 evenings are like this one, between happy guests and joyful chefs and hungry people enjoying healthy meals who otherwise might’ve gone without — you’ve created a remarkable vehicle of blessing for Charlottesville. Thank you so much!

A chef, a restaurant owner, and a bakery aligned their schedules for an auction dinner. The chef then postponed a career move to stay in Charlottesville to prepare the dinner. And, a generous bidder surprised his wife on her birthday with a “life event” to remember. All the while, they created 9,000 meals for the area’s hungry. As Frank says, a vehicle of blessing.

Take that, 2016!

auction menu 7.19 pdf

Five Finds on Friday: Gregg Dionne

Gregg

Today’s Five Finds on Friday come from Gregg Dionne, newly promoted Executive Chef of Public Fish & Oyster.  Dionne replaces Donnie Glass, who left to open Banyan Day Provisions at Timbercreek Market.  Glass says Dionne was the best sous chef he ever could have asked for at Public. “He’s more than capable of continuing to push Public from the realm of good to great, and I look forward to tasting his food and watching him grow,” says Glass.  Dionne’s picks:

1) Cozze ai Ferri (skillet roasted mussels) at Tavola.  “Simple, plump, and perfectly cooked. I appreciate a well-executed shellfish.”

2) Chocolate Bread Pudding at C&O.  “Decadent and soft. Bread pudding tends to be a ‘quick and easy after thought’ dessert, only on the menu to use scraps of bread. C&O doesn’t follow that tendency and executes it superbly. Either after dinner or just with drinks, it’s the perfect end to a night out.”

3)  Wood Fired Oysters at Oakhart Social. “Jealous of our neighbor’s awesome wood fire oven. For oyster fans looking for one more way to eat an oyster, the wood fire oven offers a unique style and flavor I can’t offer at Public. Come to Public for some raw, broiled, fried, and stewed oysters, then head next door afterward and try their wood fired variety.”

4) Polpettine at Lampo.  “Too often are meatballs carelessly executed and poorly seasoned. Lampo uses the right ground meat and seasons it properly. Best appetizer for the money in town.”

5)  La Familia at Al Carbon.  “Best bargain in town. A whole rotisserie chicken meal with three sides.  I then add another half chicken, four tacos, and six churros, which feeds five adults and costs less than $50. Perfect, quick, easy, and most importantly, delicious, group lunch.”