The Charlottesville 29

Where to eat in Charlottesville

Introducing Chocolate Parties at Gearharts

There’s a lot to like about the new, expanded location of Gearharts Fine Chocolates, on Vinegar Hill.  For one, the space is beautiful.  The ceilings tower and the maple floors gleam.  One wall is reclaimed wood from the roof of a 19th century Virginia barn, while another has massive windows along the kitchen, with a mesmerizing view of award-winning chocolate making.  And, then there are all of the things that pastry chef and Culinary Institute of America graduate Tim Gearhart has long wanted to do, but which his tiny space in Main Street Market would not allow:  cakes, pastries, and world-class hot chocolate, to name a few.

Showroom

All photos by Justin Ide Photography.

But, perhaps the most enticing of the new offerings are chocolate parties – where guests now can not only get a behind-the-scenes look at one of the nation’s most acclaimed chocolatiers, but also make chocolates themselves.  Chocolate can be a mysterious product, and one of the aims of Gearharts’ new location and display kitchen is to reduce the distance between consumer and producer.  The parties are another step in that direction.  “We wanted to continue the community feeling and enhanced chocolate experience that we started with the new space as a whole,” said Gearhart.

Gearharts’ parties come in all shapes and sizes, custom tailored as desired.  They even have an ABC license for guests seeking an added dimension to their event.  “We have had inquiries from business meetings to girls night out wine and chocolate pairings and everything in between,” said Gearhart, who personally likes the idea of a gentlemen’s chocolate pairing with beer or whiskey.

Gearharts

The signature party is a truffle making class – a hands-on lesson in making Gearharts’ famous truffles, with a variety of finishes. For children and less-ambitious adults, there is the option of a dipping party, where guests dip ganaches and other age-specific items into melted chocolate and then let them dry to set.  All parties begin with a guided tour of the entire facility and end with a box for each guest of their chocolate creations.

Trial Run

On Saturday, my daughter hosted Gearharts’ first ever party, to celebrate her eighth birthday.  Though a trial run of sorts (which Gearharts generously covered), the party went off like they had been hosting parties for years. Gearhart told the children of the importance of “perfection” in making chocolate, and he brought that same attention of detail to planning an eight-year-old’s birthday party.  The talented Justin Ide, of Justin Ide Photography, joined us to capture images of the fun.

The party began, naturally, in the party room, where the children decorated aprons while Gearhart gave an overview of the chocolate shop’s history and growth, from the early days when production was 500 pieces-per-day to today, when daily output can exceed 12,000 pieces.

Tim

Next, the kids received a tour, while Gearhart offered a kid-friendly description of the chocolate making process from beginning to end. He even taught them the most important word of the day: “ganache.”

Tour

“This tray,” said Gearhart, “has the beginnings of our peanut butter pups.”  I’m allergic to peanut-butter!  – piped up one kid. “Then don’t touch these!”

peanut

After the tour, Gearhart led the children back to the party room for chocolate dipping.  One at a time, the children dipped a Michigan Cherry ganache into a swirling pool of tempered chocolate, and then took turns dipping items like Rice Krispie treats, gummy worms, and Oreos.

Dipping

They then set their creations out to dry on parchment paper marked off into segments for each child.

Drying

All the while, Gearhart, ever the perfectionist, monitored the temperature and speed of the chocolate temperer.

Dipping1

The children topped their ganaches with a pretty design made of cocoa butter. “Before the party, I had no idea how Mr. Gearhart made the pattern on the chocolates,” said my daughter’s friend Ev.  “And, it was really cool to see how he did that.”

Design

When the chocolates were done, it was time for cake — chocolate of course.  From the parents’ perspectives, this may have been the day’s showstopper.  Gearharts’ Chocolate Buttermilk Cake is an instant contender for the area’s best chocolate cake, and there’s no surprise as to why.  Gearhart and his staff spent months perfecting it.  They collected and sampled all of the best chocolate cakes they could find, and created a new cake incorporating their favorite aspects of each.  The key to Gearharts’ may be the buttermilk, giving the cake a tangy, acidic finish that adds complexity while cutting the richness that can make some chocolate cakes’ last bite less enjoyable than the first.

Cake

After cake, the children boxed their own creations to take home with them.

Boxes

Throughout the party, the birthday girl wore a perma-grin, from ear-to-ear.  And, afterwards, she said simply: “I loved it.”

Smile

Me too.

 

2015 Dish of the Year: General Tso’s Sweetbreads

Sweetbreads

Of food at The Alley Light, one top area chef recently told me: “everyone else in town is a distant second place, myself included.”  Jose de Brito’s food does indeed continue to dazzle.  In 2015, I had dozens of dishes at The Alley Light that would warrant consideration for my favorite of the year.  But, meals at The Alley Light inevitably become such a blur of deliciouness that it’s difficult for one dish to stand out. When friends ask me to recommend what to eat there, I become one of those unhelpful waiters who essentially reads the menu back to them.

My choice for the 2015 Dish of the Year is the one that stands out most in my memory: General Tso’s Sweetbreads at Lampo.

Chef Ian Redshaw has a passion for what some call Silk Road cuisine, celebrating the flavors of Italy, China, and the historic trade route in between.  There is some debate, for example, over whether pasta came East from Italy to China or West from China to Italy.

Today, chefs are discovering that the flavors of regions along the Silk Road marry well.  For General Tso’s Sweetbreads, Redshaw uses ingredients from Italy to create a sauce evoking the sweet, salty, and umami flavors of the famous Hunan sauce which originated at the opposite end of the Silk Road, more than 5,000 miles away.  Redshaw combines honey, Calabrian chili, garlic scapes, and a fermented fish sauce called garum, which bears some resemblance to the fish sauces of Southeast Asia.  Redshaw lightly coats morsels of sweetbreads in a batter of egg and cornstarch, fries them and and then tosses them in the sauce.

The result is wow-inducing.  When I first had General Tso’s Sweetbreads in June, I called the dish “stunning” and said to my dining companions that it was the “clubhouse leader” for dish of the year.  A crisp exterior, glossy with sauce, encases tender nuggets of rich, yet delicate, sweetbreads.  While I’ve had many outstanding dishes since then, none stands out as much as Redshaw’s sweetbreads. I look forward to many more plates of them in 2016.

 

 

 

Beer Dinner at Kardinal Hall

Kardinal

Tickets are on sale NOW for the first ever beer dinner at Kardinal Hall. Chef  Thomas Leroy will prepare a multi-course feast showcasing Autumn Olive Farms pork, as well as cheese by Nabdjeeb Chouaf of Flora Artisanal Cheese. Beer Curator Charlie Toder will pair each course with beer, with an emphasis on German and Belgian styles. Details and ticket info below. Just 40 tickets will be sold.

DATE:  January 26, 2016 at 6 pm.

TICKETS: $60 per person. To purchase, call now at (434) 295-4255.

Winter squash soup with pretzel crouton, house lardo, and Gotthelf Reserve 18th month Emmentaler
Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dunkel

House made charcuterie board with ABC breads, house mustard and pickles
Jasper Hill Farm Alpha Tolman
Houblon Chouffe Dobbelen IPA Tripel

Smoked and slow roasted pork belly with arugula , chocolate vinaigrette, spicy pumpkin seeds, soft boiled quail egg w/ Brabander 9 month goat gouda
Uerige Doppelsticke

Confit ham cassoulet, grilled beets and radishes, Sharondale Farm mushrooms
Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Urbock

Cheese: Peppered Ass, Challerhocker, Winnimere
Baguette and local honey
Duchesse de Bourgogne

Cured and fried pork tenderloin
Splendora’s Founders Breakfast Stout and Stichelton Blue gelato
crispy pork rind
Goose Island 2015 Bourbon County Brand Stout