The Charlottesville 29

In Charlottesville food lore, some experiences seem so great and improbable that we eventually wonder: did that really happen? Add Laura Fonner’s dumplings at the Beer Run bar to the list.

After a fifteen-month stint at Beer Run, Fonner has accepted the head chef job at Zynodoa. Since opening in 2007, the Staunton post for refined Southern cuisine has won acclaim from national outlets like USA Today, Forbes, and Vogue. Its next chapter will be led by possibly the Charlottesville area’s most famous chef, who gained acclaim at Duner’s and on the Food Network.

“Beer Run has been amazing, and they are my favorite people I have ever had the opportunity to work for,” said Fonner. Owner John Woodriff in particular, she says, is a rare find in the industry: a genuine caring human being. “The things I have learned working there are priceless, and have made me a better chef and leader, and I am forever grateful.”

While the casual Beer Run and upscale Zynodoa seem worlds apart, Fonner says in a beautiful way they have much in common. They both feel like home, and Zynodoa’s level of food is like an elevated version of the farm-to-table food she has been cooking at Beer Run. That said, it was the siren call of fine dining that Fonner couldn’t resist. “I’m regaining a part of myself that I haven’t had since I left Duner’s,” said Fonner. “I have so many beautiful moments from my life that I can’t wait to express in a culinary atmosphere like Zynodoa. I am thrilled with the opportunity.”

Fonner’s last day at Beer Run is December 7, and she starts at Zynodoa the following day.

The cocktails entered in Malt Masters 2025 were so excellent that the panel of judges decided they all warrant praise. Along with the winner Early Harvest, the entries showcased the passion, talent, and creativity of the Charlottesville beverage community. The judges on each entry:

• Kate Corey, Cafe Frank
• Appalachian Autumn: VDC29, Albemarle Ciderworks reduction, pecan-infused amaro, black walnut bitters, Joyous Gardens dehydrated fig
  • “Exquisite. It truly embraced autumnal qualities, and made for a delightful pairing with Baked Alaska.” – Amanda Beckwith

• Josh Dickerson, Black Cow Chophouse
• The Monticello Philosopher: VDC 29, Aperol, local peach butter, house cranberry bitters, fresh citrus
  • “The local peach butter brought a decadent viscousness, which, playing with the house cranberry bitters, created Thanksivging in a glass for me.” – Amanda Beckwith

• Nycholas Hittinger, The Milkman’s Bar
• The Virginia Seasons: VDC 29, muddled mint, Paco Rojo, Amaro y Aroyo, soda water
  • “It’s not easy to create a refreshing whisky cocktail in which you can still taste the whisky. The only highball in the competition, this one pulled it off. Refreshing, but with the whisky still present.” – Joel Cuellar

• Ryan Kaufman, Lampo / Bar Baleno
• Domo Arigato Mr. Ramato: VDC 29, house Amaro blend, bitters
  • “One of the most food-friendly of the entries, this balanced cocktail showcases the whisky and goes great with Lampo’s menu.” – Joel Cuellar

• Erek Lane, Oakhart Social
• There Can Only Be One: VDC 29, Drambuie, Nochino, lemon bitters, blackstrap bitters, honey, Dona Antonia port rinse
  • “Elegance. Initially it flirts with being too big, but then at mid-palate reminds itself what it is, and finishes with beautiful balance.” – Joel Cuellar

• Micah LeMon, The Alley Light
• Grandpa’s Banana Bread: VDC 29, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Malort, Tempus Fugit Creme de Banana
  • “A delicious and clever play. The unexpected addition of Malort is deftly handled. And, the banana brilliantly pairs with the alcohol’s esters.” – Amanda Beckwith

• John Lindsey, Public Fish & Oyster
• Last Exit: VDC 29, fig-pineapple cordial, Ramazzotti, lemon
  • “The acidity of the cocktail was well-integreated, and the whisky shows up mid-palate in a perfectly made drink. Beyond that is the human element. There are people who deserve recognition for just being who they are. Every time you see John, you feel how much he wants to make you happy.” – Joel Cuellar

• Harvey Mayorga, Guajiros Miami Eatery
• Virginia Sour: VDC 29, egg white, lemon juice, demerara syrup, Ancho Reyes, Shirts & Skins Petit Verdot Float
  • “Riffing on a New York Sour was a beautiful thing to see, and I loved the decision to use a local red wine float.” – Amanda Beckwith

• Amanda Wood, Tavola
• Golden Hour: VDC 29, Vecchio Amaro del Capo, Orchard pear liqueur, butter pecan brown sugar syrup, lemon, angostura bitters
  • “So well conceived and executed. It’s an Italian place, so adding an Italian ingredient feels right. Amaros can overpower other spirits, and I was amazed how well she integrated it. Pear liqueur as a bonding agent brought everything together perfectly.” – Joel Cuellar