The Charlottesville 29

Where to eat in Charlottesville

Category: Uncategorized

In Good Company

Tony Bennett

One of the great privileges of writing a restaurant feature for C-VILLE Weekly is the company of so many fascinating guests, whose presence at meals for the articles invariably enriches the experience and adds a perspective that I lack. Thank you to all who have joined me over the years, and I look forward to many more to come. Here they are, with links to the articles describing our experiences.

  • Brian Ashworth (Chef-owner, Ace Biscuit & Barbecue), Vu Nguyen (Chef, Brazos Tacos), Ivan Rekosh (Chef-owner, Zocalo), Andrew Silver (Chef-owner, Zocalo) at Pad Thai
  • Tony Bennett (Head Coach, UVa Men’s Basketball) at Maya
  • Brian Boland (Head Coach, UVa Men’s Tennis) and Brian O’Connor (Head Coach, UVa Baseball) at Blue Moon Diner
  • The Chhabra Family (Greatest people in the world) at Milan
  • Jose De Brito (The Alley Light) at Petit Pois
  • Michael Davis (The Wine Guild) and Evan Williams (The Wine Guild) at Kyoto
  • Roberto Donna (2012 Esquire Magazine National Chef of the Year) at Palladio
  • Adam Frazier (Owner, The Local) and Pat Simpson (formerly, C&O) at C & O
  • Laura Galgano (Blue Moon Diner) and Scott Smith (Bodo’s) at Tavern & Grocery
  • Maria Gracia (El Tepeyac) at The Bebedero
  • Matt Greene (JM Stock Provisions) at Riverside Lunch
  • Bill and Kate Hamilton (Hamiltons’ on Main) at Oakhurst Inn
  • Craig and Donna Hartman (The BBQ Exchange) at Clifton Inn
  • David Heilbronner and John Maloy (Master Certified Barbecue Judges) at Smoked Kitchen & Tap
  • Christian Kelly (Chef-owner, Maya), Wilson Richey (Owner, The Alley Light, Revolutionary Soup, The Whiskey Jar, The Pie Chest, The Bebedero), Angelo Vangelopoulos (The Ivy Inn), and Tucker Yoder (Clifton Inn), at El Tepeyac
  • Jeremiah Langhorne (The Dabney) at The Ivy Inn
  • Michel Le Borgne (Founding chef, New England Culinary Institute) at The Alley Light
  • Michael Lewis (Chef-owner, Mono Loco) and Rachel Willis (Cakes by Rachel) at Bizou
  • Mike London (Head Coach, UVa Football) at Aberdeen Barn
  • Dorothy McAuliffe (First Lady of the Commonwealth of Virginia) at Public Fish & Oyster
  • Loren Mendosa (Lampo) at Tavola
  • Jennifer Naylor (Sussex Farm) and Kelsey Naylor at Maru
  • Jason Oliver (Devils Backbone Brewing Company) and Jerome Thalwitz (Bavarian Chef) at Kardinal Hall
  • Ian Redshaw (Lampo) at Sultan Kebab
  • Ettore Rusciano (Chef-owner, Menomale) at Lampo Neapolitan Pizza
  • Tom Sietsema  (James Beard award-winning food critic, Washington Post) at Parallel 38
  • Dr. Leni Sorensen (Virginia food historian) at Commonwealth Restaurant
  • Tyler Teass (Brasserie Saison) at Oakhart Social
  • Ben Thompson (The Rock Barn) at Timbercreek Market

Slow-aged, Fast-cooked Steak at Lampo

Steak

It ages for 70 days, and then cooks in about 200 seconds.  In an oven as hot as Lampo’s pizza oven, that’s all it takes to yield a perfect steak, just short of medium rare.

It is the brain-child of chef Ian Redhsaw, one of the Fab Four who own Lampo, the Neapolitan pizzeria where the stellar pizza is just part of the fun. Redshaw’s wife Allie is executive chef at Timbercreek Market, the butcher, cafe, and grocery recently opened by Timbercreek Farm.  Redshaw has been helping out at the market in his spare time, and with a longtime meat-lover in his version of a candy store, it was only a matter of time before he’d want to bring grass-fed Timbercreek steak to Lampo.

After-dry aging the meat for 70 days, Redshaw cooks it in Lampo’s pizza oven at temperatures nearing 1,000 degrees.  Less than four minutes later, you’ve got something both primal and delicious. Redshaw allowed me a sample, and the texture and flavor were spot-on.  Sometimes carnivores have a hankering for steak.  Touched with just salt, pepper, and olive oil, and rich with umami, this is exactly what they crave.

“Dry aged beef goes hand in hand with our philosophy at Lampo,” says Redshaw. “Take good quality ingredients and do as little as possible to them to elevate the flavor.”  What does the dry aging do?  For one, it “uses air and the natural uric and lactic acids to break down sinew as well as create natural MSG,” explains Redshaw. “It also tightens fat structure and decreases the amount of water in the meat, making the entire product more tender and concentrated in flavor.”

The first steaks, rib eyes, are available starting today.  There are less than 30 of them, and, at $14 for a 7 oz steak, they won’t last long. If you miss them this time, no worries.  You can just catch the next round. In about 70 days.

Steak 2

In Depth with South Fork’s Phillip Gerringer

Phillip

In this week’s C-VILLE Weekly is an article about the many virtues of a dinner party with Phillip Gerringer’s outstanding food truck South Fork.  As a companion piece, below is an in-depth look at the man behind the food truck recently named Best of C-VILLE:

Q. How did you get into cooking?

A. My mom and Grandparents were great cooks. I took it for granted growing up because we would have a full, well-rounded home cooked meal every night of the week. I could count on my fingers how many times we went out to eat in a year.

It wasn’t until I moved out of my parents’ house as a teenager and started working in restaurants that I realized what went into those meals and I started to appreciate it.

I wasn’t working in restaurants at a young age because I loved the art of cooking. I just loved the atmosphere and loved a lot of the people I would meet. But that appreciation of those home cooked meals made me take pride in the food I was preparing. No matter how generic the restaurant was where I was working, I tried to make the food I prepared taste and look as good as possible.

Q. Can you provide your cooking bio/resume?

A. Took a job in high school at a pizza restaurant where a bunch of my friends worked. It had nothing to do with me wanting to cook. It was all about cranking music, skateboarding out back, and late night pizza party raids. It closed shortly after…..

Then it was some dives and chains that filled the “gotta have a job” part of life.

It was K-38 Baja Grill in Wilmington, NC that first sparked a real interest in cooking. The food was a pretty simple Tex-Mex cuisine but with some creative twists. It was the first “cool” place I had work and I spent a lot of the next 3 years in that kitchen or at the bar.

Back to dives and chains during the transient existential crisis of the early/mid twenties era.

When I moved to C’ville in January 2007, I was getting back in school to get out of the food industry. I got a job at Mono Loco and was quickly reminded of how much fun a kitchen can be. I give a ton of credit to Michael Lewis for reigniting my interest in cooking and the industry. He let me experiment with things and put my name along side of things I came up with. That kind of encouragement is really important and left a lasting mark.

Q. What prompted you to decide to start a food truck?

A. Once I finished at UVA, I started looking for 9-5 jobs. It was the most depressing thing ever. There was nothing I really wanted to do and the more I looked, the more I realized I wanted to stay in the food industry. Some of my wife’s friends had told her I should start a food truck. I considered it but I didn’t follow or know much about food trucks (I still don’t, my social media skills will prove it….). But owning my own business was always something I had wanted to do and I figured I’d go for it.

Q. Where did the name South Fork come from?

A. The name was one of the hardest parts of starting a business for me. A lot of really bad ideas were thrown around… One day we were brainstorming and my wife saw the word pitchfork and said “what about South Fork.” It wasn’t something I would have ever come up with and it took me a little while to warm up to it. But the more things progress, the more that felt like the right name. And at some point you just have to go with something! In the end I became really psyched about it and it obviously fueled the logo design which I was really happy with as well.

Q. How did you choose the type of cuisine to focus on?

A. A southern influenced cuisine was the only type of food I ever considered. It allowed me to pay respect to all of those family meals I took for granted as a kid. But I didn’t wanted to do just traditional southern food. I liked putting my own stamp on things and putting a little twists into the menu items but still keeping them accessible.

Q. How has it been, running a food truck? Anything surprised you about it?

A. It’s been really rewarding. You put yourself out there and hope that people like this thing you’ve worked really hard on. So to have as positive of a response that we have had over the past 2 years has been awesome. I’m so grateful to everyone that has supported us.

It’s also more work than you could ever imagine. If you see me at 6pm at an event, most likely I’ve been working since the early morning and I a still have a normal 8 hour work shift left. It’s a small business so I do the bookkeeping, prep, truck maintenance, wash dishes, etc, etc. etc. I run a skeleton crew so anyone else you see on the truck has been working their ass off too. Kudos to all of my employees. Apologies to all unanswered voicemails….

Q. What are your personal favorite South Fork dishes? What dish is ordered most by the public?

A. It’s hard to pick a favorite. I guess it’s the grilled pimento cheese sandwich. But really you should ask for the burger with everything that goes into the grilled cheese. It’s not a regular menu item but we can make it anytime.

I’ve been really happy about how all of the items on the menu sell. I guess the most ordered item would have top be the Fried Chicken but it’s a close race. It’s hard to take anything off because we know we are going to have a bunch of people that come just for that item.

Q. How often do you do private parties?

A. Private parties have been getting more and more frequent. Charlottesville is a relatively small town so it’s hard to have a viable food truck scene. It’s too “hit or miss” to just pull up and serve lunch somewhere. We like to do as much street food vending as possible but private parties have really become a significant chunk of our business. They can be a lot of fun too. We get to work with the host and come up with different menu items we don’t always have and it’s almost always a laid back environment.