The Charlottesville 29

Trout. vaquero beans, clams, green peas, pancetta, garlic pistou

Everyone knows that failure brings challenges, but sometimes success does too.

When restaurateurs do so well that their restaurant lasts years, they may in the meantime enter new phases of life. Eventually, the restaurant may outlast the period of a restaurateur’s life during which they can or want to devote all of the hours required to build success. Restaurant life is grueling and unforgiving. They endured that while young, carefree, and with fewer outside responsibilities. But, as they grow older and start families, they feel a tug to spend more time with their loved ones. You only get one chance in life to watch your children grow. The challenge they face is “How can I ensure the continued success of my restaurant without missing that chance?”

Some restaurateurs conclude that they can’t, and leave the industry. Others try to reduce time at their restaurant without compromising its success. Sticking that landing is no easy feat. Not everyone who attempts it succeeds. But, when they do, it is a beautiful thing to see.

Last night I had dinner at Oakhart Social with a friend who eats there almost weekly. He posed a question that was an enormous compliment to the restaurant: “Is Oakhart Social just as good as it has ever been? Or, is it even better?”

When Ben Clore and Tristan Wraight opened Oakhart Social in 2014, it was an instant sensation. Since then, it has been a model of consistency, and a place I often recommend to folks looking for a great Charlottesville restaurant. More than a decade later, Clore and Wraight both have families, and yet Oakhart Social has not faltered. How have they done it?

Their key to nailing the transition has been love. The saying goes: “when the cat’s away, the mice will play.” And, if you treat employees like cats treat mice, you can expect a dropoff while you are away. But, Clore and Wraight treat their staff like loved ones. Because, they are loved ones. The result is a team that feels vested in one another and the restaurant’s success. Looking around the restaurant last night, I saw joy. As staff hustled about doing their work, they did so with the energy and enthusiasm of people who enjoy what they do.

A second reason for nailing the transition is chef Todd Grieger. Chef-owner Wraight has long had a knack for hiring talented chefs. Never did he find one better than Grieger. In 2015, burnt out by restaurant life, Grieger needed a breather. His career had taken him through demanding kitchens like Maya, Palladio, Glass Haus Kitchen, The Blue Light Grill, Mas, C&O, and more. So, he took a job as a teacher at Culinard. But he still felt the itch of restaurant life, and in 2017 started picking up some hours at Oakhart Social.

Over time, as Wraight’s role decreased, Grieger’s increased, so much so that he is now Head Chef and runs the kitchen. And the love continues. “Tristan and Ben have created an environment that allows family and love and excellence to flourish,” said Grieger. “I wouldn’t be successful without them and my team.”

Grieger remains so passionate about food that he and his team never stop creating new dishes and specials. Meanwhile, the Oakhart Social restaurant family seems as happy as ever. And dining there is as pleasant as ever. Or more?