Does legacy matter to a restaurant owner?
Some owners pour so much of their lives into their restaurant that they care about its fate after they’re gone. C&O’s owner of 30+ years once hand-picked the successor he deemed most capable of carrying the torch. Bodo’s’ founder did the same after three decades of owning Charlottesville’s signature restaurant. And the owners of Spudnuts were so concerned about what might become of their iconic donut shop that, at retirement, they opted to close rather than sell.
Like these owners, Ivan Rekosh built a Charlottesville institution. A fixture at the heart of the downtown mall, Zocalo was the first restaurant entered into The Charlottesville 29. The lives improved by what Rekosh gave to Charlottesville number in the tens of thousands. Rekosh co-founded Zocalo with two partners in 2003, but over time they moved on, leaving Rekosh as the sole owner since 2017. Now Rekosh himself has moved on.
In chef Will Miguel, Rekosh believes he has found an ideal successor. When Rekosh met Miguel last year, he had already been thinking about leaving the industry. Under the pressures of the pandemic, the restaurant grind, and the pull of family time, he realized that the trademark consistency of his restaurant was slipping. Rekosh was ready to get out.
But there was a problem. He couldn’t just sell the place to anyone. People capable of sustaining a legacy like Zocalo’s are few and far between. When he met Miguel, though, he could hardly believe his luck. For one thing, there was Miguel’s resume. In his native Mexico: places like Anatol, Au Pied de Cochon, and Shandra. And, here in Virginia: Marigold, Clifton Inn, and Orzo, among others. But, more striking to Rekosh were the intangibles. Few people, Rekosh said, have what it takes to run a great restaurant. But Miguel seemed to have them all. Grit, passion, know-how, and, most notably to Rekosh, work ethic. “I’ve never met a harder worker.”
Rekosh hired Miguel as chef in September 2023. Months later, he became owner.
If there’s anyone happier about this than Rekosh, it’s Miguel. His love of food took him to many stops over the years, soaking up knowledge from as many mentors as he could. He viewed it all as preparation for his ultimate dream: to own a business combining his two passions: food and serving people. “I feel a responsibility to bring something to the community,” said Miguel. “The only way I can do it is with food.”
What makes the opportunity even more special for Miguel are two things. One is the name. “Life works in mysterious ways,” said Miguel. “It is hard to believe I own a restaurant with the name of the square in the city where I grew up.” The other is the place that Zocalo holds in the community. “It is a privilege and honor,” said Miguel. “I want to restore the glory of Zocalo.”
Why a privilege? “Zocalo has a legacy of bringing special memories to people’s lives,” said Miguel. “My job now as a leader is to answer: how are we going to keep that legacy and also bring new memories to new people?”
What’s Next for Zocalo
With a legend in his hands, Miguel knows to tread lightly. The beloved tuna tartare, scallops, and chile relleno aren’t going anywhere. But, Miguel will make his mark, some of which is underway. When Miguel took over, he saw that there was work to do to restore Zocalo’s glorious past, as he puts it. “We need to change to keep things the same,” Miguel said. He updated the interior, hired new staff, and focused on restoring the kitchen discipline that helped make Zocalo a success.
He has also made a few menu changes, including weekend brunch, which Zocalo hadn’t offered since its early days. Huevos Zocalo combines black bean rice, chorizo, fried eggs, corn tortillas, queso fresco, pickled red onions, charred tomatillo sauce, and sour cream. While, an omelet drawing on Miguel’s Mexican roots is filled with Oaxacan cheese epazote, and topped with avocado, tomato sauce, and crema.
And, in the evening, there’s a new tapas menu to supplement Zocalo’s dinner classics. Gambas al ajillo is Gulf of Mexico shrimp in olive oil, garlic, dried arbol chili, and parsley, with grilled bread to mop it all up. It’s all delicious, Rekosh said of Miguel’s cooking. “He’s a great chef.”
Of the Zocalo classics now entrusted to him, Miguel’s favorite is grilled salmon with green chili and goat cheese couscous, smoked pico, and cascabel cream. And among his new additions, he favors the pulpo — Spanish octopus, with paprika miso sauce, and potatoes topped with chimichurri.
Rekosh is eager for Miguel to succeed, and remains a supporter behind the scenes, helping Miguel with anything he needs. “I love it,” Miguel said. “My success is his success.”
When the owners of C&O and Bodo’s selected their successors, they assured the icons’ futures would be as bright as its past. To Rekosh, Miguel has what it takes to do the same for Zocalo. And when all else fails, Miguel can fall back on the reason he got into the business in the first place. He was fourteen when he started, carving Peking Duck at a Mandarin restaurant in Mexico City. Decades later, he said, his motivation is still the same. “I do what I do with love,” said Miguel. “I hope people can see it. And most important, I hope they can taste it.”
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