The Charlottesville 29

Where to eat in Charlottesville

Tag: Will Richey

Introducing Timbercreek Market

Creek

The first food tenant at the historic Coca-Cola building is set to open.  And, it’s no joke.

Timbercreek Market, an offshoot of Timbercreek Farm, will house a butcher shop, cheese shop, and casual restaurant, all in one.  For years, Timbercreek Farm products have been on menus of the area’s top restaurants, on shelves at select retail outlets, and available for purchase from the farm itself.  Now, Timbercreek is poised to remove altogether the middle men from the “farm-to-table” process.  The farm will bring its products literally to guests’ tables.

Sara Miller, who owns Timberbreek with her husband Zach, said that the idea behind the market is to “answer demand from both our customers and chefs that has been increasing over the years . . . for a place where they can gather to enjoy, shop for, and learn about the local foods we grow at the farm as well as those grown at other farms in the area.”

Given how esteemed Timbercreek Farm is throughout the food community, it’s no surprise that an all-star cast has flocked to help out. Will Richey and Josh Zanoff, of The Alley Light, The Whiskey Jar, and Revolutionary Soup, have been overseeing planning.  “I have worked with Timbercreek since the very beginning,” said Richey.  “With this new project, Timbercreek can extend their best practices in rearing animals to the best practices in handling the meats they produce.”  Richey says that while the market will have “all the things you expect from a top notch butcher shop,” what will make it special is that “you’ll know exactly where all of the meat is coming from — the farm less than seven miles from where it is being sold.”  Chefs and customers can inspect the daily offerings, select exactly the cut of meat they want, and know its source.

Beyond Timbercreek’s own beef, pork, lamb, chicken, duck, rabbit, eggs, and produce, the market will also offer products from other top local food businesses, including other farms, Shenandoah Joe, The Pie Chest, and more.  Meanwhile, The Wine Guild will provide a selection of wines, which can be enjoyed both on premise and off. The idea, Richey said, is to be a one stop shop for whatever’s needed for a great local meal.

Running the cheese counter will be Nadjeeb Chouaf, who last year was named second best cheesemonger in the country. The market will be the new home of his Flora Artisanal Cheese.  “I’m really excited about partnering with Zach and Sara,” said Chouaf who expects the new, larger space for his cheese shop to allow expanded selections, and also regular cheese classes, events, and even pop-up dinners.

Manning the butcher counter will be Adam Lawrence, a ten year veteran of Whole Foods Market.  “I am truly passionate about meat cutting,” said the Earlysville native. “It is an art not commonly practiced in this day and age.”

And, heading the kitchen will be Allie Redshaw, sous chef of Pippin Hill Farm.  Anyone who has enjoyed a meal recently at Pippin Hill knows that this is a good thing.  A very good thing.

Redshaw, whose husband Ian co-owns Lampo, plans an array of prepared food items to eat at the market or take home, as well as sandwiches stuffed with Timbercreek products.  We got a sneak peek at the menu and its a doozy, with options like a 120-day Dry Aged Ribeye Philly Cheese on ABC Ciabatta or a Brioche Grilled Cheese with Bone Marrow.  But, the sandwich that Redshaw is most excited about is her riff on a banh mi, which she says will include “an assortment of Porky goodies, pickled vegetables, and seasonal pates.”  Instead of the traditional crusty baguette, Redhsaw will serve the sandwich on Tigelle – a delicious bread from Emilia Romagna that is notoriously difficult to perfect.  Redshaw has been working hard to do just that, and Timbercreek Market will make theirs fresh daily.

Most of the rest of the sandwiches will be served on bread from Albemarle Baking Company, which drives home how intertwined our local producers and purveyors are.  Timbercreek provides its farm’s eggs to the bakery, which uses them to make bread, which the bakery provides to Timbercreek to make sandwiches.  “A full circle,” said Miller.

Last but not least, there will of course be steak!  Customers can pick any steak they like and, for a small fee, have it grilled for them on the spot.  Richey is high on this option.  “I am personally ecstatic about the chance to walk into the shop, point at a perfectly cut steak in the case and say, ‘Grill that for me, medium rare’, and then sit down with a beer to wait for my steak – any time of the day.”  Beer and steak any time of day sounds good to us.

Timbercreek Market plans for a June opening, with hours 10-7, Monday through Saturday.  In the historic Coca-Cola building at 722 Preston Avenue.

Tucker Yoder and Josh Zanoff at The Whiskey Jar

Crispy egg

Since ending his four-year run as Executive Chef of Clifton Inn in December, Tucker Yoder has been busy with his new roving restaurant, Eljogaha, which has popped up at L’Etoile and Blenheim Vineyards, and will be at Grit this weekend.  Yoder also recently stepped into the kitchen at The Whiskey Jar to provide his expertise. Though his stint was short by design, the impact should be lasting.  “I tried to introduce some different techniques and uses for items they had,” said Yoder, “and worked with [owner] Will Richey and [chef] Devin [Murray] to create some new dinner menu items.”

As an example, Yoder cited a crispy egg salad with greens, schmaltz vinaigrette, ‎pickled onion and chicken skin.  A “crispy egg,” said Yoder, is one that has been soft-boiled, breaded with stone ground grits, and then deep fried.   Pictured above, yes it tastes as good as it looks.

But, Richey says that many of the changes will not be apparent from the menu itself.  Instead, the focus has been improving existing dishes.  “When Devin and I began to think about these changes, we wanted the idea of ‘Grilled and Green’ to be the driving concept, getting us back to our goal of presenting Southern food that can be fresh and healthy,” said Richey.  For example, “with some great guidance from Tucker, we revamped our salads to make them a key feature on the menu . . . and craveable.”  Look also for a fresher take on side dishes, like marinated mushrooms, fresh sautéed vegetables, and sweet curry pickles.

Yoder’s kitchen consultation has been part of a broader effort over the last several months to “polish” the restaurant, as Richey puts it, and bring it back to the way he had originally conceived it.  The changes are not dramatic, Richey said, but rather small tweaks here and there to restore the restaurant’s ambience, food, and service.  “Overall, we will be the good ole Whiskey Jar,” said Richey.

Perhaps the biggest change is Richey’s reunion with former business partner Josh Zanoff, a Culinary Institute of America alum who Richey credits with teaching him how to cook years ago.  The two once cooked together at L’Etoile, catered together, considered starting their own bistro, and joined forces at Revolutionary Soup, which Zanoff helped revamp when Richey bought it in 2005.  They then went their separate ways, but Zanoff recently returned to the fold and now is running The Whiskey Jar.

The spring menus, below, launch today.

LUNCH

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DINNER

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Introducing The Alley Light

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In all of our time in Charlottesville, there is no culinary experience we have enjoyed more than Ciboulette, the much-missed gourmet shop and eatery that closed in 2006.  Sure, service could be spotty, but the food was magnificent.  We were so fond of Ciboulette that its last lunch menu still hangs in a frame on our kitchen wall.

The genius behind Ciboulette’s food was Jose De Brito, who has since kept busy with stops at Hot Cakes and Fleurie.  All the while, his devotees have hoped he might return to a venue where he could again let loose.  Thanks to restaurateur Will Richey, he may have found one.  Richey has snagged De Brito as chef of his new lounge, The Alley Light, set to open next week.

With Revolutionary Soup, The Whiskey Jar, and The Wine Guild under his belt, Richey seems to have a knack for creating successful food and drink businesses.  His latest venture began as an idea for somewhere he and his wife could go out to talk.  In contrast to the many loud, bustling bars around town, Richey wanted a quiet, intimate hideaway for conversation.  The understated, elegant, dimly lit room he has created above Revolutionary Soup on the Downtown Mall is intended to fill that void.

Alley Light

Photo by Ginger Germani.

As initially conceived, Richey wasn’t even sure if his “club room,” as he calls it, would serve food.  But, when he ran into De Brito at a party last year, the two discussed De Brito coming on board as well.  De Brito had long respected Richey as one of the good people in the industry, and was impressed by Richey’s vision for his new place: “convivial plates, top ingredients, a relaxed atmosphere, fairly priced, great cocktails and wines, and a changing menu,” as De Brito recalls it.  De Brito also relished the opportunity to use produce and livestock from Richey’s own farm, where he lives.

Familiar with De Brito’s talent, Richey has given him virtual carte blanche in the kitchen.  But, he hasn’t given him a stove.  So, De Brito plans to preserve, stew, braise, pot, salt, brine, jar, pickle, confit, papillote, or even not cook his food at all.  While the offerings will change often, a tentative opening menu includes small plates like cured cod gratin with olive oil, greens, and toast points ($9), and french green beans with grated foie gras and almond-shallot vinaigrette ($12).  There are also platters of chracuterie intended for sharing, one from land and another from sea.  Among the land selections may be rabbit rillette with tomato confit and olives, or a terrine of veal, foie gras, and sweetbreads, with pear and blackberry preserves.  From the sea, there might be salmon rillette, scallop boudin, or squid and rice sausage.

If the food we sampled is any indication, De Brito’s fans will not be disappointed.  An amuse bouche of escargot was reminiscent of Ciboulette’s famous escargot sandwich, while a dish of beef tartare with capers, shallots, and pastured eggs  likewise brought back fond memories.  And, the star of the night may have been braised and roasted pork belly, with bite-sized spheres of apple, and frisee in an acidic dressing.  The parts complemented themselves so well that we imagined scooping them all up and stuffing them into a baguette for a perfect sandwich.

The wine is both well priced and well chosen, thanks to Richey, himself.  As members of The Wine Guild know, he is one of the area’s biggest oenophiles, with a passion for affordable, lesser-known wines.

Manning the bar will be Micah LeMon, one of the top mixologists in town.  A former manager of the bars of Blue Light Grill and Pasture, LeMon also writes about spirits for C-VILLE.  At The Alley Light, he plans a bitters program, along with lists of top rums, gins, brandies, and amaros, among others.  He’s even got a cocktail carbonator.  As for his cocktails, his aim is to “be attentive to detail and technique.” On our visit, we resisted classics like an Astoria, Manhattan, and Sazerac in favor of a tasty house creation, “The Boy Who Cried Wolf,” with Barr Hill gin, house lime cordial, and hopped citrus bitters.

The Alley Light officially opens Wednesday, February 12.  Hours will be Wed-Sat, from 5 pm to midnight, and Sunday from 5 pm – 10 pm.