The Charlottesville 29

In Malt Masters, top bartenders are competing to create the best cocktail from Virginia Distillery Company’s whisky tribute to Charlottesville.  The Charlottesville 29 Single Barrel is the distillery’s first-ever single-cask 100% American single malt finished in a port cask. “Crafted from this place, for this place,” the distillery says. The full story is in C-VILLE.

Now, Charlottesville bartenders are vying to make the tastiest creation with it. The line-up of entries is so stellar that picking a winner will not be easy. That task falls on a panel of three judges who helped select The Charlottesville 29 Single Barrel itself.

Amanda Beckwith, Lead Blender & Director of Liquid Development, Virginia Distillery, Co. 

Amanda Beckwith is the Lead Blender at Virginia Distillery Company. Renowned for her palate, she has trained with industry experts like her mentor Nancy Fraley, Scottish consultant Harry Cockburn, and the late Dr. Jim Swan. In addition to leading the company’s blending program, Beckwith oversees product development and company education. As for her palate, the data-focused CEO of Virginia Distillery Company, Gareth Moore, has been known to test Beckwith by intentionally mislabeling samples for the distillery’s sensory panel, and even using caramel coloring to make samples look older than they are. Beckwith’s palate is so refined that he has never once duped her. “There must have been a labeling mistake here,” she’ll say.

Joel Cuellar, Speakeasy

Former Spirits Sommelier of Brandy Library, Joel Cuellar now presides over Speakeasy + Whiskey Bar at The Doyle Hotel, where he is beloved for his cocktails and knowledge of all things spirits. A world expert on whisky, Cuellar has tasted thousands and gained a reputation for a palate that can discern a whiskey’s origin, age, and barrel type. He is a permanent judge at the New York International Spirits Competition, holds a degree from the Institute of Brewers and Distillers, and is certified to teach about Cognac and Armagnac.

Simon Davidson, The Charlottesville 29

Once called “Charlottesville’s most prolific food writer,” Simon has covered Charlottesville food and drink for more than a decade, including his website The Charlottesville 29 and The Daily Progress’s restaurant column, Dinner With Simon. He has written for  C-VILLE Weekly, Travel + Leisure, Eater, The Local Palate, and Edible Blue Ridge; appears weekly on WINA’s Charlottesville Right Now; and has had his work chronicled by The Daily Progress,  American Weekender, StoryCorps, Eat It, Virginia!, the University of Virginia, and C-VILLE Weekly’s Power Issue. He really likes whisky.

One of Charlottesville’s top chefs ate at The Jervey last week and called it “flawless.” I went the following night, and flaws were hard to find. This is not always true of a new restaurant working out the kinks, and The Jervey’s polish may be a product of the industry veterans behind it. Richmonders know that everything Donnie Glass touches is a gem. And, the rest of the ownership team includes Charlottesville’s Andy McClure, Ross Johnson, Scott Shanesy, and John Shanesy. McClure and the Shanesys have built a following for their spots Belle and Ciaccia.

The grandeur of the space feels in the tradition of places like Gotham Bar and Grill, where opulence and comfort coexist. In the beautiful room, under sparkling starburst chandeliers, form does not displace function. One guest even commented on the comfort of the seats. You’ll want to stay a while.

As for food, simplicity can be harder to practice than preach, but chef John Shanesy walks the walk. The Francophile blends French and American influences to create a menu full of crowd-pleasers — the type of food people want to eat. Parker House rolls, fried Virginia oysters, a la carte steaks, creamed sunchoke spinach, and four types of potatoes. There’s even an ice cream sundae.

There’s no better example of simplicity than my entree: brick-pressed chicken. It’s just chicken and salt. With food this simple, sourcing and technique are vital. Shanesy nails both. It is outstanding.

More involved is a spinach “toaster strudel.” A rectangle of pastry stuffed with creamed spinach, topped with truffle butter and flakes of Maldon sea salt. We enjoyed it so much we sent one to a neighboring table. With a vinegary side salad, it would make a nice supper. Or, shared, as we did, a delicious whet of the appetite.

The focus on comfort extends to hospitality with a staff eager to please. There’s even Express Wine Service: wine waiting at your table, upon request.

Restaurateurs have long coveted the Belmont lot at the corner of Monticello Rd. and Meridian St. as a prime restaurant location. The Jervey occupies it with such grace, it’s as though it has been there for years. Let’s hope it will be.