The Charlottesville 29

First a food truck. Then, a brick-and-mortar home for their food truck. And now, a full-fledged restaurant of their own. After fleeing Venezuela for the U.S., it’s no wonder that Fernando Salazar and his wife Maria Salazar-Gil say they are living the American Dream.

Arepas Steakhouse opens this month in 5th Street Station, offering not just steaks, but also sandwiches, salads, snacks, and Venezuelan specialties. When they launched their food truck Arepas on Wheels in 2022, their aim, Maria said, was “for the beautiful Venezuelan cuisine to be known around central Virginia.” A full-service restaurant allows them to pursue that dream further.

Why a steakhouse? In Venezuela, Fernando grew up in a family of cattle-raisers, and developed a passion for grilled meats on farms owned by his father and grandfather. “Among our friends and family he is known for being a very good griller,” said Maria. “This hobby is what made him always want to have his own steakhouse.”

But that dream was not to be in Venezuela, where a corrupt government and failing economy stood in the way. When Fernando spoke out against the government, Maria feared retribution, and the couple and their two daughters fled to the United States, seeking asylum in Charlottesville, where a cousin of Fernando lives. Initially they did whatever odd jobs they could find – cleaning, working in kitchens, childcare. But, they longed to run their own business, and saved every penny until they could afford to do so.

They first launched a food truck, serving Venezuelan arepas. That was so well-received that they launched a brick-and-mortar on Cherry Avenue, while also continuing their food truck operations for additional revenue. The brick-and-mortar was such a success that it was finalist for Best New Restaurant. And now, Arepas Steakhouse.

The Food

Fans of the Salazar-Gil family’s arepas will be happy to know that a full menu of arepas will still be available. There are also appetizers like tequeños, arepita chips, and tostones; soups like sancocho de res; and platters like pabellón criollo and fried whole tilapia.

And, there’s of course an array of Fernando’s grilled steaks, like NY strip, sirloin, ribeye, and the Venezuelan favorite cut, picanha. Also on his grill are lamb, chicken, and pork chops. All with a choice of sides, like yuca, tostones, plantains, black beans, rice, and more.

Maria is so fond of Fernando’s grilling that she can’t pick a favorite. “Everything that comes off his grill will always be the best you can try,” said Maria. But, their two daughters each do have menu favorites. For Ana, it’s the Pepito – a baguette sandwich, filled with steak, chicken and bacon, covered in salsa de ajo (garlic sauce) and parmesan cheese. And for her older sister Mafer, it’s Pollo Guisado, a Venezuelan chicken stew served with rice and sweet plantain.

A Warm Welcome

“God has been good to us,” said Maria. “He allowed us to escape the situation that Venezuelans live in our native country and helped us to reach this noble and welcoming city where if you work with focus and perseverance, you can develop all your plans and achieve your goals.”

The Salazar-Gil family has been so grateful for how welcoming the Charlottesville community has been to them that they want their restaurant to feel just as welcoming to the community. In the space next to Extreme Pizza, it’s a family-friendly setting that even has a small playground on the patio for young children. “As a family we have no other feeling than gratitude to God, to this beautiful community of Charlottesville, and to all the people who in one way or another have helped us to travel this path,” said Maria.

Opening Thursday August 15, Arepas Steakhouse will be open seven days a week, at 355 Merchant Walk Square, Suite 300. Follow along on Facebook and Instagram.

A “modern Mexican-American bar” is how The Bebedero’s River Hawkins describes his latest venture, Mejicali. Like Hawkins himself, it is a hybrid of cultures, blending Mexico and California. Children of immigrant families can sometimes feel like they straddle two identities – “not American enough to be accepted here, but not Mexican enough to be accepted there,” Hawkins said. It is from this no-man’s-land, Hawkins says, that cultures like Chicano and Cholo emerged.

Hawkins’ business partner also comes from a family of immigrants from Mexico – John Ornelas, whose family co-owns the Guadalajara restaurants. Ornelas co-owns El Mariachi as well. Hawkins’ and Ornelas’ new venture Mejicali reflects their Mexican-American culture, all the way down to the appearance – an explosion of colors celebrating Hawkins’ heritage. “The art on the walls and expression of the bar,” said Hawkins, “are very much the styles I grew up on in Salinas, CA in the eighties and nineties, with street art and lowrider culture — things that were considered low-class, criminal and thuggish while I was growing up.”

The food is likewise a hybrid – primarily “Mexican street vendor food,” says Hawkins, but also borrowing from other countries, like the U.S. and Peru. “What we’re both trying to do is celebrate the motley culture of second generationals like ourselves in creative modern ways,” said Hawkins. In Esquite Bombs, for example, the Mexican street corn classic esquites, comes with a twist: shaped into balls, breaded and fried. The tacos, meanwhile, are California-style, stuffing housemade tortillas with fillings like fried Mahi Mahi, skirt steak, and birria. Hawkins is also partial to the Leche de Tigre (Peruvian Ceviche) and Trompo del Pastor, an Al Pastor pork skewer with guacamole mousse, red pickled onions, salsa and a tortilla.

Trompo del Pastor

Esquite Bombs

That same spirit spreads to the bar. At The Bebedero and Milkman’s, Hawkins has earned a reputation as one of the area’s best mixologists.  In the Chicha Gimlet, he takes a classic cocktail with origins in the UK and US, and adds a taste of Mexico. Cucumber infused Beefeater Gin, joins lime, sugar, mint, and Chicha Morada, a purple corn beverage. The cocktail is served in a plastic bag, which Hawkins says is a nod to how frescas are served at beaches all over Mexico.

Hawkins is an expert in Mezcal, often traveling to distilleries throughout Oaxaca to educate himself, cultivate relationships, and seek out undiscovered gems. At Mejicali, he is serving Mezcal and Tequila on tap, including Del Maguey Vida Espadin, Mi Campo Tequila Blanco, Cazadores Reposado Tequila, and Espolon Blanco Tequila. An expansive patio allows guests to have their Mezcal where some say it was meant to be enjoyed: outdoors.

Serving lunch and dinner seven days a week, Mejicali is now open at 852 W Main Street, in the former home to World of Beer.

For many Charlottesville food-lovers, this counts as big news.

The food truck Tacos Gomez is opening a brick-and-mortar. Originally from Mexico, the Gomez family launched their truck in 2015, initially as a side gig to share their family’s food with the public. It was so well-received that they decided to make it their full-time job, and, from there, success only grew. In 2022, Tacos Gomez was named Best Food Truck in Charlottesville.

Now, the Gomez family is taking the next step and opening a brick and mortar. With a focus on breakfast and lunch, Desayuna con Gomez expands on the truck’s menu of tacos, tortas, and quesadillas, adding dishes like breakfast burritos, enchiladas, molletes and some epic-looking sandwiches on French baguettes. The pepito de arrachera, pictured above, is a skirt steak sandwich, with beans, guacamole, and panela cheese.

Desayuna Con Gomez opens Tuesday January 23, at 1305 Long St B.