The Charlottesville 29

One of Charlottesville’s top chefs ate at The Jervey last week and called it “flawless.” I went the following night, and flaws were hard to find. This is not always true of a new restaurant working out the kinks, and The Jervey’s polish may be a product of the industry veterans behind it. Richmonders know that everything Donnie Glass touches is a gem. And, the rest of the ownership team includes Charlottesville’s Andy McClure, Ross Johnson, Scott Shanesy, and John Shanesy. McClure and the Shanesys have built a following for their spots Belle and Ciaccia.

The grandeur of the space feels in the tradition of places like Gotham Bar and Grill, where opulence and comfort coexist. In the beautiful room, under sparkling starburst chandeliers, form does not displace function. One guest even commented on the comfort of the seats. You’ll want to stay a while.

As for food, simplicity can be harder to practice than preach, but chef John Shanesy walks the walk. The Francophile blends French and American influences to create a menu full of crowd-pleasers — the type of food people want to eat. Parker House rolls, fried Virginia oysters, a la carte steaks, creamed sunchoke spinach, and four types of potatoes. There’s even an ice cream sundae.

There’s no better example of simplicity than my entree: brick-pressed chicken. It’s just chicken and salt. With food this simple, sourcing and technique are vital. Shanesy nails both. It is outstanding.

More involved is a spinach “toaster strudel.” A rectangle of pastry stuffed with creamed spinach, topped with truffle butter and flakes of Maldon sea salt. We enjoyed it so much we sent one to a neighboring table. With a vinegary side salad, it would make a nice supper. Or, shared, as we did, a delicious whet of the appetite.

The focus on comfort extends to hospitality with a staff eager to please. There’s even Express Wine Service: wine waiting at your table, upon request.

Restaurateurs have long coveted the Belmont lot at the corner of Monticello Rd. and Meridian St. as a prime restaurant location. The Jervey occupies it with such grace, it’s as though it has been there for years. Let’s hope it will be.