Will Richey: Charlottesville’s Food Community Remembers Its Captain

by Charlottesville29

Wilson Richey . March 28, 1976 – December 12, 2023

Wilson’s children meant the world to him. You may support them here. And donate to the food bank in his honor here.

The Charlottesville food community remembers its captain:

Simon Davidson – The Charlottesville 29
To know Will was to be loved. Few people emanate warmth and love the way Will did. You felt it just by looking at him. By being near him. As images and memories of Will race across my mind, there is something they all share: he is smiling. Makes sense. I never saw him frown. His loss is unmatched because there was no one like him.

Jake Busching  – Jake Busching Wines
Words were as dear to my friend Wilson as proper seasoning was. He used both to great effect. We taught one another truths and faced all of the lions head on, knives in hand. He was both the guard at the gate and the rogue in the garden shadow. He loved truly and cast his eye on the world critically but always with the hope of seeing a dragon through the fog. And so I will stand resolute, with a broken heart until this grief breaks and then carry on. My heart is with all of his families; blood, chosen, or found. I shall endeavor to love as he did in all things.

“O Solitude! if I must with thee dwell,
Let it not be among the jumbled heap
Of murky buildings; climb with me the steep, —
Nature’s observatory — whence the dell,
Its flowery slopes, its river’s crystal swell,
May seem a span; let me thy vigils keep
‘Mongst boughs pavilion’d, where the deer’s swift leap
Startles the wild bee from the foxglove bell.
But though I’ll gladly trace these scenes with thee,
Yet the sweet converse of an innocent mind,
Whose words are images of thoughts refin’d,
Is my soul’s pleasure; and it sure must be
Almost the highest bliss of human-kind,
When to thy haunts two kindred spirits flee” – J Keats

Emily Harpster – SugarBear
It’s hard to find the words to explain the hole that Will left in my life. We packed a lifetime into such a short window, and there was so much ahead of us.

Will, you made me a better person. You showed me possibilities that I didn’t know existed. Thank you for teaching me how to make the world’s best coq au vin. Thank you for teaching me about foraging, and caviar, and how to swing an axe properly. Thank you for loving your friends and family so much that they have taken me in as one of their own.

I will never again drink a Burgundy without wanting to check the app and confirm that it’s a Burgundy day. I definitely will never think about Christmas the same way again. I will also never again regard my refrigerator as clean now that I have seen yours. And I don’t know when I am going to have the heart to go to France without you.

Cheeseburgers and ice cream really were a match made in heaven.

What you built through food and drink was such a profound act of love and creativity.  And the way you got it done was so uniquely you. You were a gentle, steady, funny, badass, and utterly charming old soul.

I’m so sorry that we didn’t get more of each other. Please know that you will be with me forever. I’m here, Will.

And I don’t care what you say, your scrambled eggs were perfect.

Priscilla Curley – The Wine Guild
Wilson was the second person we met in Charlottesville. When I got my job at Tavola, Michael Keavney said to me “moving here from a big city, what’s your husband going to do?” I shrugged, and he said “Don’t worry, I got a guy.” Josh, Wilson & Will became the Ten Course musketeers, and they became our family here. Wilson and Josh were at our wedding, we cut down our first Christmas tree with the Richey family, and attended all of the Richey kids birthdays out in Esmont. I shot my first gun on that Esmont farm drinking moonshine out of a mason jar that Wilson said “probably wouldn’t make me go blind.”

One day Wilson called me and asked me to come work for him at Monticello, and I rolled my eyes – and said yes. No matter what, you always said yes. He was the kindest, most beautiful soul of a poet you would ever know – and he knew how to have some crazy ideas. He always called me his ‘doer’  and he was the dreamer. When we opened South and Central together I told him “absolutely not, that’s insane” more times than I could imagine, but somehow it almost always got done.

It’s somehow fitting that he wanted to go see Josh in heaven on his birthday today, and I hope they’re doing the same things we all did. Drinking some of the best wine in the world, and singing “The Fairytale of New York” just like we did every Christmas.

Stephanie Williams – The Wine Guild
It’s taken me days to be able to write these words, because, dear friend, your love was beyond words.

You were one of our very first “people” in Charlottesville after college. How much fun we had. We laughed, we drank, we ate, we sang, we travelled – we always embraced our time together. We’ve been through iterations of life together- weddings, houses, kids, wins and losses.

In our ‘more grown up years’ we built beautiful and energetic businesses together. You created incredible concepts and teams and I helped create the space for those visions. I learned from you, you learned from me, and we brought things to life.

There’s much more to learn. I’m going to have to entrust that the broader community that you built will be there for us, all of your businesses, partners, and teams as we navigate your visions without your quick wit, mischievous smile, steadfast spirit, and incredible set of skills.

Your legacy, your circle, and your work will live on in our care. Your love will continue deeply embedded in us all.

Cheley Napoli – The Bebedero
Wilson Richey and Joshua Zanoff hired me in a management position in 2016 without me having any management experience before making me partner in 2020. I have been in the restaurant business since I was a teenager, however I never managed a company. I remember when they interviewed me and Wilson asked me what hospitality meant for me, and I answered, “Hospitality is a way of life. To create a place where people can gather, celebrate accomplishments and life, or a safe place for those going through hardship. But it doesn’t end there, it’s also helping our coworkers thrive and make it through.”

He smiled and said: “You’re hired.”

I met Josh and Wilson together, and it’s important to know this because they were soul mate besties, and the passing of Wilson happened on what would’ve been Josh’s 50th birthday. It was a very Shakespearen tragedy. Although sad, it brings me comfort them being together. I love Wilson dearly. He was my best friend, brother and mentor. I will make sure everything we do at The Bebedero honors his legacy.

Mike Stewart – Smyrna
Wilson, my friend, I always thought I’d be able to share some of these words with you in another format. I envisioned some sort of awards ceremony where you’re being recognized for your accomplishments. It’s a matter of fact that the Charlottesville restaurant scene wouldn’t have been the same without you. It is also true that Charlottesville at large will not be the same without you.

You know what I liked the most about Wilson? His friends. I’m being funny of course. I say that to say, when thinking about how am I going to put into words what such a genuine person meant to me? The thought occurred to me, every single person I met through Wilson that he called a friend, are nothing short of amazing people. I think maybe that alone tells you everything you need to know about Wilson. It wouldn’t satisfy the curiosity however.

We came to know each other in an arranged employment of sorts, equally skeptical, wondering how is this going to work out? Four restaurants later, a handful of disagreements, and countless laughs. That’s how it worked out. Words cannot express how much of a fundamental role you played in the development of my career. I am at my worst when it comes to striving for perfection. You’d often remind me, “don’t let the perfect be the enemy of the good.” I’d often not listen and end up banging my head against a wall. The enormous amount of patience it takes just to keep me in check during that process should be criteria for sainthood. You did it. You smoothed over every feather I ruffled. You’d continue to mentor, coach, and teach no matter how difficult I made it. You were one of my favorite people to talk shop with. You were definitely my favorite person to see walking in the door of whatever bar I was tending. Especially when looking like a sunburnt castaway, disheveled, and looking like you found yourself at my doorstep based on the tide. I knew we were going to have the best laughs.

I’m going to miss you my friend. I’m thankful that we were always able to share how we felt about each other. You believed in me. There’s no amount of anything that compares. I will forever be grateful for having you in my life.

Mark Gresge – l’etoile
In the earliest days of letoile in late 1999, Vickie, my wife, came into the kitchen and said “I just met a really nice guy, and he wanted to work with us – you are really going to like him.” I asked what his name is. Vickie replied: Wilson.

Godspeed my friend.

Will Curley – The Wine Guild
Everyone depicts the angels on the shoulder as leading you into or away from temptation, but Wilson sat on my shoulder, and everyone who knew him, like that magical third thing, loudly and frequently telling me to order the foie gras, spend that extra $20 on the bottle of wine I really want, laugh louder with friends and ENJOY life. What’d be the point otherwise, he’d say? Today is Josh’s birthday too, and that makes this harder, and more poignant – I met them on the same day, my first day working for Ten Course (I was the part-time lunch host at the old old Bebedero while they figured out where to put this fancy pantsy big city restaurant wine dork), and while I’m heartbroken, I’m glad those two are together, certainly smoking whatever passes for dope in heaven and listening to Jerry Garcia live, once more.

Everyone will talk about his joie de vivre, but I’ll remember his incredible eye for detail – between the gentleman farmer schtick and his natural gregariousness, it might have passed unnoticed that he was the sharpest restaurant eye around, and he caught things early, picked up on trends, solved problems before they happened, and generally left us saying, ‘how’d he figure that one out?’.

I laughed him out of the office the first time he proposed serving tinned fish at Brasserie Saison, but he was right, of course, and now look where it’s gotten me. I can’t believe he’s gone, I’m certain this is some sort of ‘It’s a Wonderful Life’ prank from him, and he and I will go back to arguing about serrated steak knives in restaurants like usual.

Kate Collier – founder, Feast!
It’s so hard to understand the cruel fate of losing Will, such a vibrant, dynamic character at just 47 years old. I just read his favorite poem, Ode to a Nightingale. To digest Keats’ words, to know that Will appreciated the inevitable end to life’s journey and he therefore loved, created, ate and drank with full exuberance is, I hope, a comfort to those who loved him. His professional legacy is one of kindness, authenticity and vision. His stamina for imagination, collaboration and creation is legendary. He employed, entertained and inspired so many in his too few years.

Liza Federman – Tavola
Wilson,

I feel like I never gave you the thanks you deserved. Even though I get the feeling you didn’t need it. You were always so appreciative. An undervalued quality in the service industry these days. You acknowledged me. You made me feel seen and heard. When you asked me to do something and I completed the task, you’d always respond something along the lines of “Thank you!  You the best.” You never lacked enthusiasm, or exclamation marks.

You were always smiling, you believed in second chances, you believed in people which in turn made them believe in themselves. You were always willing to listen, be involved, and offer advice. In fact, you weren’t just willing, you wanted to.

You went out of your way to be kind. You were always so humble. You did what was right for the sake of just doing the right thing. You were the Santa Claus of hospitality. Giving to give, without expecting a pat on the back or anything in return. You worked with your heart. That’s not an easy thing to maintain as a business owner – and I definitely took it for granted. For someone who put themselves in the center of what can be a soul taxing industry, you never sacrificed your soul for it, which thankfully allows it to live on. Allows us to pridefully carry your spirit with us.

We had to cancel your reservation at Tavola on Tuesday. I made sure to pour some bourbon for you and I clinked the table you had booked with my glass. Cheers to a genuine man, experiences I wouldn’t trade for anything, and to the ones who loved you, who have to endure this crazy thing called life, without your unique, child-like passion for it.

I pondered putting a block on that table, not letting it be re-booked for your time slot, but I knew you wouldn’t have wanted an empty table in your absence.  As I know you know, and believed, the show must go on, along with everything you taught us.  But it will never be the same without you.

Thank you for everything Wilson, you the best🤘

Brian Helleberg – Fleurie
My favorite part of Will’s incredible lovability was his great sense of humor.  He was razor sharp and quick witted, and I think the reason that he freely shared that with us was that he loved to create comfort, laughter and joy, just like he did with his restaurants. I’m going to miss him dearly.

“Just chillin with my hoes,” said Will.

Laura Fonner
This one hits hard. In my darkest moments, you were there with words of wisdom and encouragement. A true friend without hesitation. A shining light in a moment I only saw shadows. Thank you for every word you said to me, every ounce you respected me, and everything you shared with the world. Your impact will shine bright forever.

Chris Dunbar – The Alley Light
When I interviewed with Will Richey in 2014, I was surprised at how forthcoming and honest his conversation about hospitality and business was. His sincerity went against the status quo. It would be the first of many times I saw him go against the grain. Soon after starting at The Alley Light, it was apparent how much he cared about the success of his employees. Instead of mere lip service, he teamed up with his staff in successful ownership partnerships with Revolutionary Soup and The Bebedero. Soon thereafter, he sold The Alley Light to my wife Robin and me. It was obvious Will cared more about the success of others than himself. This unselfishness was a defining trait.

Although Will’s taste in fashion was questionable, his taste in wine and food was matched only by his desire to share his extensive knowledge with staff, guests, friends, and strangers. Although not an aspiration for him, Will’s influence on the dining scene in Charlottesville is vast. He only wanted Charlottesville to enjoy good food and wine even if it wasn’t at one of his (every expanding) places. He constantly described the attributes of other restaurants while never talking ill of his industry peers.

As Will spread his partnerships and restaurant openings, I naturally saw less of him. However, in particularly stressful times of restaurant ownership, Will always provided an important and constructive sounding board. I was always amazed at how simple and positive his solutions were to what I thought were impossible issues. He truly loved restaurants and people.

Will was an amazing friend and mentor and I already feel somewhat lost knowing that I won’t be able to lean on him. More than that though I’ll miss Will’s laugh while telling a story around a group of friends. Or exuberantly explaining the intricacies of Pinot Noir in his natural unassuming way. His loss is immense and only outweighed by the luck we had of knowing him. Will was never shy of professing his love for people. I hope he knew how much I and countless others felt the same.

Melissa Close-Hart – Mockingbird
I really only knew Wilson professionally, but I have the upmost respect for him. The restaurant world is a dysfunctional family of sorts. We all move from restaurant to restaurant, chef to chef. All of us cooks are separated by 3° or less and it’s like we’ve all worked with each other, even if vicariously. I have had many a cook come to my kitchen with Will as a reference, coming up in the ranks at one of his many places. A reference from Will was a gold star in my eyes. I have never been disappointed in hiring an employee that came from a Will Richey establishment and I think this speaks volumes on Will as a person and a mentor. He will be missed not only by those that love him, but by those in the industry that respect and admire him.

Angelo Vangelopoulos – Ivy Inn
I was recently getting to know Will personally. Over dinners with Michael Keaveny and me, Will shared stories about life, love, travel, business and food. His enthusiasm was contagious, his kindness and generosity were overflowing. I am so sad to have lost the opportunity to know Will better, he had so much life to give. My heartfelt sympathies to his family, friends and restaurant family.

Craig Hartman – The BBQ Exchange, Exchange Cafe
I was devastated by the news of Wilson’s passing. So sorry for his family first, and so sorry for his restaurant family second. I know how tight a restaurant family can be and how important that Wilson is to all of his team. I am devastated for the Charlottesville community that was the recipient of Wilson’s talent and passion and style. Selfishly, I am devastated for myself as Wilson was like a beacon of hope for me as I followed his work, his perseverance, his positivity and his creative mind. When I have felt overwhelmed with this industry, I could look to Wilson or commiserate with him. I will so miss that. Wilson, you will be sorely missed.

Daniel Kaufman – Public Fish & Oyster, Black Cow Chophouse, BottleHouse
Will was always the first guy I’d call when I needed restaurant advice. He was always so gracious to share his opinions and experiences and as one of the most experienced restaurateurs I know, it was rare I didn’t take his advice. He was always a joy to be around and he had the most genuine love for food and wine of anyone I had ever met. He will be sorely missed by so many. I have many fond memories of sharing food and drink with Will.

Tyler Teass
Will was a one of a kind person not only professionally but personally, and to know him for as long as I did is a blessing. So many stories can be told about Will, and it’s incredible to see how many lives he has touched around Charlottesville and beyond. Will had an adventurer’s spirit that translated into him being able to see the good nature of all people, no matter what walk of life from which they came, a trait I can’t say I’ve seen anywhere else in my life.

His infectious enthusiasm for life and work led me to be involved with him at Brasserie Saison, and for that I am very grateful in so many ways. I wish I could tell him that today. We will all miss Will very much.